In the summer of 2018, when Alan told me that we would be traveling by train from Nice to Barcelona, my mind lit up with images of traveling through the Pyrenees, the great mountain range that divides France and Spain. Of course, the wonders of modern engineering means that the train zips in a tunnel through the mountain.
Alan and I and our three daughters had an unforgettable, wonderful week in Barcelona, shopping, touring and eating delicious meals. But seven years later, my children have still not forgotten, nor forgiven me for the last day of our vacation.
The choice was to spend the day in the turquoise waters of the picture-perfect Costa Brava beachfront. Or to visit Girona, a historic medieval city that was the home of the Ramban. Also known as Nachmanides, he was a great Jewish medieval scholar, rabbi, philosopher, physician and kabbalist. (After his skillful performance in the Disputation of Barcelona in 1263, he won the respect of King James I of Aragon, who awarded him 300 pieces of gold. Later in life, he was exiled from Spain. He went to Jerusalem, where he wrote his legendary biblical commentary.)
Did you know that Girona is only 40 minutes away from Barcelona by high-speed train? This old town is picturesque, with brightly colored old stone houses lining both sides of the Onyar River. The Girona Cathedral is mighty impressive, towering over the town on a high hill. In the shadow of the cathedral (mere steps away) is the well preserved “El Call,” the Jewish Quarter. From 890 until the Expulsion of 1492, a Jewish community flourished on an ancient Roman thoroughfare, “Carrer de la Força,” where historic doorways still show slots for mezuzah scrolls.
Everything laid forgotten and buried until the 1980s, when restoration efforts began. The last synagogue of Girona, which was sold to the Catholic Church in July 1492, is now the Jewish Museum.
The gurgling sound of the crystal clear, bubbling spring water of the medieval mikvah moved my soul. What a miracle that half a millennium had passed and it was still there, perfectly preserved.
The gurgling sound of the crystal clear, bubbling spring water of the medieval mikvah moved my soul. What a miracle that half a millennium had passed and it was still there, perfectly preserved.
Our kids were not quite as excited (to say the least). So, to make it up to them, Alan and I promised them one last dinner at Maccabi Restaurant. Located on Las Ramblas (the historic, famous bustling main promenade of Barcelona), Maccabi serves authentic kosher Spanish cuisine. My girls loved all the different paellas that they serve.
Recently, my daughter Alexandra and I made a most delicious Paella Valenciana. (Our version omitted the traditional rabbit and snails.)
This classic savory Spanish dish features moist, tender chicken, creamy, saffron-infused rice, sweet, tangy cherry tomatoes, earthy artichoke bottoms and crispy green beans. It was so flavorful. My greatest joy was feeding it to my baby granddaughter Noa and seeing her pleasure in eating it.
—Sharon
For me, Arroz con Pollo (basically a chicken paella) means instant comfort. My mother made it often, seemingly conjuring this magical dish within minutes. She would sizzle the onions and brown the chicken and then she would add the chicken into the rice that slowly cooked with saffron and paprika (or depending on her mood — turmeric or cumin). Her version always had plenty of brightly colored, fresh vegetables — carrots, celery, zucchini, red peppers and green peas. When she wanted to make it extra special, she added artichoke hearts. She always added green olives — their briny tang made the whole dish sing.
The whole house was wrapped in the warm aroma of her cooking.
The name paella comes from the large flat skillet that is used to cook the dish. The essential step to a flavorful skillet meal is to sear the chicken until it is browned, ensuring that the juices are sealed in. The short grain rice is glazed with the onions, garlic and diced tomatoes, earthy saffron and sweet paprika. Then the browned chicken is gently nestled in the rice. The slow steaming process softens the rice and fuses the flavors, making the paella simply delicious.
Paella is perfect for any festive occasion or as a one pot weeknight meal. It is easy to make ahead and to reheat for stress free entertaining!
Whenever I make Arroz con Pollo for my own family, I feel my mother’s presence in the kitchen. It’s a reminder of her love — and of how food connects us, generation to generation.
—Rachel
Paella Valenciana
1/4 cup olive oil
4 chicken thighs
4 chicken drumsticks
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp Old Bay seasoning.
1 large onion, finely chopped
8 garlic cloves, minced
10oz heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
Salt and pepper, to taste
Pinch of saffron, steeped in 1/4 cup warm water
3 1/2 cups warm chicken consommé
1 10 oz package frozen artichoke bottoms, thinly sliced
6 oz haricot verts
Lemon wedges and chopped parsley, for garnish
Warm oil over medium high heat in a very wide skillet. Add the chicken pieces skin side up, then sprinkle with paprika and Old Bay. Sauté chicken for 5 to 7 minutes, then flip pieces and sauté for another 5 to 7 minutes.
Remove the chicken from the skillet and set aside.
Place the onion in the skillet and sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden. Add the garlic and tomatoes and continue to sauté until the tomatoes are softened. Lower the heat to medium, add the rice and stir gently to combine with the onions and tomatoes. Season with the salt and pepper and saffron water. Allow the rice to toast for several minutes.
Pour the consommé over the rice and allow to simmer for about five minutes. Nestle the chicken pieces in the rice. Place the artichoke and beans at the outer edges of the skillet.
Cover the skillet, lower the heat and allow to simmer for one and a half hours.
Garnish with lemon and parsley.
Paella can be prepared ahead and reheated for one hour in an oven set to 350°F.
Sharon Gomperts and Rachel Emquies Sheff have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Girls project has grown from their collaboration on events for the Sephardic Educational Center in Jerusalem. Follow them
on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on Facebook at Sephardic Spice SEC Food. Website sephardicspicegirls.com/full-recipes.
