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Spice of Life: A Slice of Za’atar Challah

While challah takes effort and time and patience, it is the ultimate reminder that we reap what we sow.
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April 24, 2025

For me, challah baking is a labor of love. The magic of proofing the yeast with sugar and warm water to form a creamy, bubbly foam. The powdery white cloud and soft fluttery feel of the flour as it is sifted into the bowl. Mixing in the oil and eggs and yeast mixture and the tight pull of kneading the ingredients. The satisfaction of a perfect smooth, stretchy dough. Watching the puffy rise of air in the dough. The satisfaction of punching it down, forming strands, then braiding and baking.

This week, dear reader, Sharon and I wanted to inspire you to bake your own challah.

Of course, that meant we had to photograph our challah before Pesach. And we were on a very tight deadline because Sharon was leaving to spend Passover in South Africa.

My challah always comes out perfect, but this time around I was stressed and rushing and I deviated from my recipe. After I put the three eggs in the dough, there was one lonely egg in the carton. I didn’t feel like putting the whole carton back into the fridge for one egg. What harm would it be if I added another egg? First mistake!

Then I left the dough to rise too long. By the time I got to Sharon’s kitchen, it was a bit sticky and I was not pleased with myself at all. Second mistake!

Sticky dough is a challenge. I sprinkled more flour on my working surface. Then, Sharon and I spooned sweet caramelized purple onion into the strands of dough. I did my best to braid the dough into the form that we had envisioned.

Although the dough was not as smooth and beautiful as I had hoped, the za’atar topping covered any imperfections. Challah dough is so forgiving.

We sat and chatted and waited for the bread to bake. When the tops of the challah appeared golden brown, Sharon said, “It looks done. Are you sure you don’t want to take it out?” But challah can be deceptive. The outside might look crisp and golden, but remove it from the oven too soon and it can be slightly raw in the center. Nobody wants that. So, when you bake your challah, make sure that the bottom is darker than the top. Tap the bottom and make sure it sounds hollow.

My mantra for baking challah — Be Patient!

—Rachel

For the past 25 years, I have listened to Alan describe his childhood summers in Capetown. He and his family would travel from Johannesburg to stay with his maternal grandparents at their flat in the Wavecrest Building. His Grandpa Elie would take him for early morning walks on the beach and afternoon rides on the Blue Train and they would share a favorite light night feast — toast topped with orange marmalade, a sliced banana and melted cheese. His favorite memories included warm days lazing on the white sands of Clifton Beach and swimming in the icy blue waters of the Atlantic.

There would be Shabbat meals with Granny Beryl, Auntie Ren, Uncle Theo, his cousins Janine and Jeff, along with his parents and younger sister and brother.

This year, he decided it was time to go back to visit. There were fourteen of us to celebrate Passover together: Alan and I and our three girls (my son Ariel, his wife Rachel and baby Noa were in Paris with her family), Auntie Ren and Uncle Theo, cousin Jeff and Esther and their sweet 19-year-old daughter Layla, who live here in Capetown. Auntie Fiona and Uncle Paul, their daughter Lisa and her husband Ryan flew down from Johannesburg to be with us.

We made our apartment kosher for Passover and I walked up and down Main Road, Sea Point numerous times to gather ingredients for the four meals I would be hosting. I went to Checkers and Spar and Woolworths and back again, lugging readymade food and fresh fruits and veggies.

I certainly wasn’t focused on challah. Alan had brought pita from Los Angeles to make ha’motzi on Friday night. But when we went out on the balcony to have our last taste of chametz, Alan’s aunt was disappointed that there was no challah.

Like a magician, Alan pulled out the large challah that Rachel had forced me to keep from our Jewish Journal photo session. Everyone marveled at the fluffy texture of the bread, the sweet, caramelized onion and the earthy, nutty flavor of the za’atar.

—Sharon

Nothing could make me happier than knowing that my challah had traveled all the way to South Africa and that everyone had enjoyed it.

While challah takes effort and time and patience, it is the ultimate reminder that we reap what we sow.

Gather your friends and family around your table and indulge in the simple luxury of “lechem,” bread.

—Rachel

 

Za’atar Challah Recipe

Topping:

2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 

1 large purple onion, finely diced

1/2 tsp sugar

Pinch of salt

Za’atar

1 egg and 1 Tbsp honey, beaten for egg wash 

Warm the oil in a shallow fry pan over medium high heat. Add the onions and sauté for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the sugar and salt, stir well, then lower the heat. When onions are golden brown, remove from heat and set aside. 

Dough:  

4 Tbsp active dry yeast

4 1/2 cups warm water

2 Tbsp sugar

5 lbs high gluten bread flour

1 cup sugar

2 Tbsp salt

3 large eggs

1¼ cup vegetable oil

 

In a large glass bowl, combine yeast, warm water and sugar, then cover with a towel and allow to proof for 10 minutes.

In an extra large bowl, sift the flour with the sugar and salt. Add the eggs and oil and mix to combine. Add the proofed yeast mixture to the dough and mix until all the ingredients are well incorporated. 

Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic. If the dough feels too sticky to handle, gradually add a little flour.

Return the dough to the bowl and cover with plastic wrap and a towel. Set aside in a warm spot and allow to rise for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Take a piece of challah the size of a golf ball and recite the blessing of Hafrashat Challah. Burn the challah by wrapping it in a piece of silver foil and placing in the oven.

Separate the dough into sections, placing caramelized onion into each strand. and braid into challah. Allow each challah to rise 15 minutes.

Brush with egg wash, sprinkle with za’atar and bake for about 45-55 minutes, until challah is golden brown. Allow challah to cool completely before storing.

Note: It is a mitzvah to make the blessing of Hafrashat Challah when baking a bread dough with 5 pounds of flour. 

Transliteration: Baruch ata Adonai Elo-hainu Melech Ha’olam asher kid’shanu b’mitzvotav v’tziva’anu l’hafrish challah.

Translation: Blessed are You, L-rd our G-d, King of the Universe, who has sanctified us with His commandments and commanded us to separate challah.


Sharon Gomperts and Rachel Emquies Sheff have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Girls project has grown from their collaboration on events for the Sephardic Educational Center in Jerusalem. Follow them
on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on Facebook at Sephardic Spice SEC Food. Website sephardicspicegirls.com/full-recipes.

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