For me, the ultimate food for any celebration is couscous.

On Fridays in Morocco, the whole house would be filled with the steam from the couscous that was carefully fluffed in the couscoussier (French) or cuscusera (Spanish). The tiny grains of pasta were never boiled, rather they were patiently steamed, until each one was separate, light and fluffy.

In a large broth pot, beef or chicken simmered in a saffron tinted stew, alongside chickpeas and seasonal vegetables like carrots, cabbage, zucchini, turnips and pumpkin. And at the table, that broth would be ladled over the mound of fluffy couscous. On special days, the couscous would be crowned with t’faya, a sweet jam of caramelized onions and raisins spiced with cinnamon.

For the Jews of Northwestern Morocco who in lived in Tangier, Tétouan and Larache under a Spanish influence, couscous was not only for Friday nights. It was the dish of simcha, a dish of joy, abundance and blessing.

For the Jews of Northwestern Morocco who in lived in Tangier, Tétouan and Larache under a Spanish influence, couscous was not only for Friday nights. It was the dish of simcha, a dish of joy, abundance and blessing.

It was served on most Jewish holidays and life cycle celebrations.

On Rosh Hashanah, families made a sweet couscous, topped with raisins and almonds, as a prayer for a sweet new year. On Sukkot and Shavuot, couscous with seven vegetables reflected the harvest’s bounty. At weddings, the countless grains symbolized countless blessings for the couple’s future. During the bano de novia — the bridal bath ceremony, women would gather, sing and celebrate the bride with platters of couscous, a dish that nourished body and soul. Even at a brit milah, couscous was brought out to honor the child with food that carried the promise of blessing and continuity.

I love the symbolism that couscous represents the many blessings we hope for in our lives. It is meant to be shared, eaten together around a platter, reminding us that joy is sweeter when celebrated as a family and as a community.

While my mother and my grandmother patiently steamed their couscous two or three times, I’ve learned a quicker way that still delivers beautiful results. I leave the grains to soak up hot broth under a tight lid, resulting in fluffy, flavorful couscous in a fraction of the time. It’s the kind of trick that allows the tradition to stay alive (while keeping it achievable for the modern, time-pressed cook.)

—Rachel

Moroccan Rosh HashanaH  Couscous with T’faya

Serves 8

Couscous 

1 17oz box couscous, medium-grain (Not instant, if possible. Rivoire & Carret is the best.)

1/3 cup olive oil

2 tsp salt

4 cups hot chicken or vegetable broth (more might be needed)

Place couscous in a large container that has a tight lid. Drizzle with olive oil, then rub the grains between your hands until evenly coated. 

Pour the hot broth over the couscous, until there is 1 inch of liquid above the grains. Cover tightly and let sit for 20 minutes. Fluff with a fork until light and separate. (If couscous feels too dry add more liquid and cover for another 10 minutes.)

Saffron Broth 

6 cups vegetable stock or chicken stock or water

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, divided 

1 Tbsp salt

1 tsp white pepper

2 tsp turmeric                                                                                                    1 pinch of saffron threads

1 medium yellow onion

2 leeks, cut into 4 pieces

3 large carrots, peeled and chopped into large rounds

1 small green cabbage, cut into quarters and leaving the bottom intact

1 turnip, peeled and cubed 

1 large quince, peeled and quartered (optional)

2 medium zucchini, cut into cubes or rounds

In a large pot over medium heat, simmer the stock with 1/4 cup olive oil, salt, pepper, turmeric and saffron.

Add the onion, leek, carrots, cabbage, turnip and quince and simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the zucchini and simmer for an additional 10 minutes. 

Remove the vegetables from the broth and set aside.

Braised cheek meat

3 lbs beef cheeks or chuck roast

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped 

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped

2 tbsp tomato paste

4 cups chicken stock or water

1 cup red wine

Salt and white pepper to taste

Pat the cheek meat dry and season with salt and pepper. In a heavy Dutch oven, warm the oil over high heat. Sear the cheeks on all sides until well browned. Remove and set aside.

In the same pot, add the onions, and sauté until soft and golden, scraping up any brown bits. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste and wine. Cook for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.

Pour in the stock or water and return the cheeks back into the pot, until they are submerged in liquid. Bring to a gentle simmer, then add the cilantro and salt and pepper to taste. 

Cover tightly and cook at 325°F in the oven or on a very low flame on stovetop for 3–4 hours, until the cheeks are fork-tender. Add a splash of stock or water if it gets too dry. (To cook in an Instapot or a pressure cooker, sear the meat. Then add all the ingredients to the pot and pressure cook for one hour.)

T’Faya SWEET ONIONS AND RAISINS 

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 lb yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 lb red onions, thinly sliced 

1 cup golden raisins, soaked in boiling water

1 tsp ground cinnamon

4 tablespoons honey or sugar

Warm the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until golden, about 30-40 minutes.

Drain the raisins, then add them to the onions. Add the cinnamon and honey, then cook for an additional 10 minutes over medium heat.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH 

1 or 2 butternut squash or pumpkin, peeled and chopped into half-moon slices

1/4 cup Olive oil

1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 400°F. 

Place butternut slices on a parchment-lined baking tray and toss with the oil.

Sprinkle with cinnamon and bake until golden and fork tender. 

FRIED GARBANZOS AND ALMONDS

1/2 cup oil for frying

1 cup peeled blanched whole almonds

1 13-ounce can chickpeas, drained

Heat oil and fry almonds first. Drain on paper towels.

Fry garbanzos and drain on paper towels.

Reheat in oven before serving. 

Assemble couscous

Serve the vegetables and broth in a large tureen or bowl. 

Place the couscous on a large platter, and garnish with almonds and garbanzos.

Place butternut squash on a platter and top with Tfaya. 

Serve braised cheek meat in a bowl.

Sharon Gomperts and Rachel Emquies Sheff have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Girls project has grown from their collaboration on events for the Sephardic Educational Center in Jerusalem. Follow them
on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on Facebook at Sephardic Spice SEC Food. Website sephardicspicegirls.com/full-recipes.