The sepia engagement portrait of my beloved Nana Aziza and Aba Naji is legendary. He sits leaning in to her, looking off into the distance, dashingly handsome in his well-tailored suit and tie. She gazes into the camera, looking like a silent movie star with her soft curls, dark eyes and bow lips. 

This treasured photo captures the beginning of their union and represents our family origin story. It is also a bittersweet reminder of the life that once was. My young grandparents belonged to a Babylonian Jewish community that had thrived for 2,600 years, since the first Exile from the land of Israel. Only eight years after that photo was taken, they, my mother and her four younger brothers were living in the harsh conditions of the ma’abarah, one of the hastily erected tent cities in Israel. 

Two months before my Nana Aziza passed away, I asked her if she remembered when the photo was taken. In telling me the story, she seemed to relive the happiness of that day. They had traveled to Basra from Al-Azair, where for centuries her family had been the keepers of the shrine of Ezra the Scribe. The photographer was a dear friend of my grandfather and the photo was shot in his studio. (I always imagined that her dress was burgundy, but she told me that it was navy. Her beautiful jewels were confiscated by the Iraqi government when they made Aliyah in May 1951.) 

The Shatt Al Arab River, which is formed by the confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers, flows through the city of Basra. The river was a source of many prized varieties of freshwater fish and Arab fishermen ensured that the many street vendors and restaurants had a steady supply of fresh fish. My grandmother told me that after the photo session, they and a small group of friends feasted on freshly grilled fish kebabs. 

As a little girl growing up in Sydney, Australia, I loved all the food that my grandmother cooked. Except fish. And my grandmother loved to cook fish — grilled, fried or stewed in a sweet and sour tomato broth. 

For me, the only fish that was acceptable was the fish and chips sold at the corner shop — deep fried, crispy, beer-battered cod, served with hot chips, malt vinegar and tartar sauce, all wrapped up in butcher paper. Of course, with age my tastes matured and I learned to love fish. I still love cod for its mild, delicate flavor and its moist, flaky texture.

These roasted cod brochettes with crispy roasted potatoes and purple cabbage slaw were the perfect summer meal.

Nana Aziza would approve. 

—Sharon

This week, Sharon and I dreamed up this delicious recipe for cod skewers in an herby green sauce. The first step is to salt the fish and let it sit for a bit, then pat it dry. Then we made a marinade with olive oil, sweet paprika, chili oil, minced garlic and finely chopped dill and we let the fish absorb the flavors before threading it onto skewers. We popped it in the oven at a high heat and cooked it to golden perfection. 

Then we made my favorite green sauce. There’s something about the combination of garlic, fresh herbs, and lemon that instantly transports me to summer and the blue shores of the Mediterranean. This sauce is so simple and so flavorful. Fresh cilantro and dill give it a bright, almost grassy freshness. Minced garlic adds depth. Good quality extra virgin olive oil brings everything together. A squeeze of lemon lifts it all, making it the perfect companion for grilled fish — or really, anything off the grill.

There’s something about the combination of garlic, fresh herbs, and lemon that instantly transports me to summer and the blue shores of the Mediterranean. This sauce is so simple and so flavorful.

Pairing the tender fish brochettes with the vibrant herb sauce and crispy potatoes reminded us of eating by the sea with the scent of saltwater in the air. Blue skies, blue water, and that magical summer feeling of being far from everything, with nothing on the agenda but to eat and enjoy.

—Rachel

Cod Brochettes

2 lb fresh cod, cut to 3“ cubes

Kosher salt

Marinade

1/4 cup olive oil 

2 tsp chili oil or 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes 

3 garlic cloves, minced 

1 tsp sweet paprika 

Salt and black pepper, to taste

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill  

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Place fish on a plate and lightly sprinkle with salt. 

Prepare marinade by combining the olive oil, chili oil, garlic, paprika, salt and pepper. Then add the dill. 

Use paper towels to pat the fish dry, then place the fish in the marinade. Allow to sit for 15 minutes. 

Thread marinated fish onto skewers and place on a parchment lined baking tray. 

Roast in the oven for about 15 minutes, until golden. 

Green Herb Sauce 

1 bunch fresh cilantro,

1/2 bunch fresh dill

2 garlic cloves

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 lemon, juiced 

Salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste

1 tsp dried oregano, optional 

Use a food processor to gently pulse the cilantro, dill, and garlic.

Drizzle in olive oil and lemon juice. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Allow the sauce to sit for 15 minutes to let the flavors meld.

Serve alongside fish, chicken or vegetables.

Sharon Gomperts and Rachel Emquies Sheff have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Girls project has grown from their collaboration on events for the Sephardic Educational Center in Jerusalem. Follow them
on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on Facebook at Sephardic Spice SEC Food. Website sephardicspicegirls.com/full-recipes.