Robert “Papouche” Robaire, who founded the landmark Robaire’s French Restaurant, passed away on December 13, just two weeks shy of his 100th birthday.
French cuisine was part of his North African Jewish heritage. Born in Tunisia in 1922 when the country was under the French Protectorate, Papouche ran the French restaurant Le Bar Paul. During World War II, he became acquainted with the American soldiers who came to the family restaurant and he decided to immigrate to the U.S. in 1949.
A pioneer in the Los Angeles restaurant scene, Papouche opened Robaire’s French Restaurant in 1952 on La Brea Boulevard, introducing French cuisine to thousands of Angelenos. He had originally opened the restaurant in Whittier, but it was rejected by the religious residents who did not approve of the wine used for some of the French dishes like coq au vin or beef burgundy.
Moving to the La Brea location was also a challenge at first. Papouche had to sell coffee and donuts for breakfast and lunch just to make enough money to serve French food for dinner. His fortunes turned in 1954 when a Hollywood personality who was a customer mentioned Robaire’s Restaurant on the television show “This Is Your Life.” Suddenly, people from all over America had heard of the restaurant and wanted to try it for themselves.
The Hollywood connection continued into the restaurant’s heyday. Regulars included silver screen legends such as William Holden, Marilyn Monroe, Barbra Stanwyck and Ginger Rogers. Louis Armstrong had his own table in the balcony, where he would feast on the cassoulet dinner before showtime.
Besides introducing traditional French specialties to the region, he also gave locals their first taste of North African cuisine in the form of couscous.
Besides introducing traditional French specialties to the region, he also gave locals their first taste of North African cuisine in the form of couscous, which he served on the last Wednesday of every month.
Papouche retired from the restaurant business in 1990 after 38 years, but his legacy lives on through the many chefs he mentored, as well as the memories of the customers who enjoyed the food and basked in his Mediterranean hospitality.
His son Jean, an award-winning advertising art director, said his father never pressured him to join the family business and was actually relieved when he told him he wanted to go into advertising.
In addition to Jean, Papouche is survived by Mona, his beloved wife of 67 years, grandsons Daniel, David and Julian and great-grandchildren Ellia, Mila and Matisse.
In lieu of flowers, his family is requesting donations to the Blind Children’s Center, Los Angeles, an organization close to his heart.
