One night, on our recent trip to Jerusalem, Neil and I wandered over to Mahane Yehuda. The bustling, vibrant food stalls of the Shuk were closed, but the nightlife was already buzzing. The bars were open, the music blared and the narrow alleyways were filled with crowds of people and a happy energy. After walking through the busy Shuk, we stepped away from the crowds and began exploring the quieter streets nearby.

We stumbled upon Ishtabach, a small, unassuming spot with a large glowing wood burning clay oven in the front. But they weren’t selling pizzas and the restaurant wasn’t Italian.

Inside, people were sharing big platters of dough filled with meat. Kind of like open calzones, but with a definite Middle Eastern twist.

We waited outside in the chilly Jerusalem air until a table opened up inside. The space was tiny with green-tiled walls and six rough hewn wooden tables and a counter with stools. Hanging on the wall was a photo of an old woman, clearly someone’s grandmother and possibly the inspiration behind the food. The place felt warm, homey and full of life.

The chefs were busy, placing brisket, chicken, asado, vegetables and breads on the rotating floor of the oven. Mesmerized, I watched the food spin around and around until each dish reached golden perfection and the chefs pulled it out with wide wooden paddles. It was hypnotic.

Craving a simple meal, I ordered the shepherd’s pie. When the waitress placed it in front of me, it immediately reminded me of pastel (the Moroccan version of shepherd’s pie and my favorite dish to cook and eat on Shabbat). I laughed and told her, this looks like pastel and she agreed. Ishtabach’s version — creamy mashed potatoes, atop richly spiced and tender shredded beef — was incredible and it hit every nostalgic note.

I was supposed to share with Neil, but after tasting it, I changed my mind and ate the whole thing.

I was so full, I could barely move. But that is the beauty of Jerusalem, you walk everywhere. By now the Shuk had been transformed into a street party, with young people dancing, drinking, laughing. We found an open bakery and bought a few boxes of cookies. In our beautiful room at the Sephardic House Hotel, we brewed some hot tea. We sampled a few of the cookies (the Moroccan fennel cookies were our favorite) and we ended the night full and content. I felt completely at peace, deeply grateful for the food, for the experience, for being in Israel.

This last Friday, after dreaming about that pastel, I decided to try making it for Shabbat. I took out my trusted Instant Pot, which always guarantees perfectly tender beef. I added the ingredients and while it began heating, I started peeling potatoes.

Then I heard a strange beep. The screen of the Instapot read: Burning Caution. I’d never seen that before. Worse, I noticed that the pressure valve was missing. Gone. I panicked.

While we were away, we had remodeled our kitchen. Everything had been packed up and moved around. I searched everywhere. Nothing.

The meat had already started cooking, and there was no turning back. So I did what I had to do, I transferred the meat to a large soup pot on the stove and kept going. The meat simmered slowly for two hours, until it was fork tender and falling apart.

I used a beef cheek, which is a bit pricey, but is so rich and flavorful that you don’t need much. The dish, with its base layer of mashed potatoes, middle layer of savory beef and topping of creamy mash, is more about depth than quantity.

The resulting pastel was beautiful and deeply comforting, just like the one I ate in Jerusalem. There may not have been the spinning oven and the bustling crowds outside, but the spirit of that night emanated in my kitchen.

That’s the amazing thing about travel—you never know which meal will stay with you, or which experience will make it into your life for good.

—Rachel

Every time I travel to Israel, I stop at a magical store that is steps away from the Shuk HaCarmel in Tel Aviv. It’s dark and a little bit dusty. It’s filled with rugs and furniture, Moroccan lanterns and embroidered cushions from India. I always find a couple of small tchotchkes to buy, souvenirs to remind me of Israel. The last time I was there, I bought a small wooden frame with the word “Yishtabach” in Hebrew letters. It’s a powerful word that means “may He be praised.” It sits as inspiration on the windowsill of my kitchen.

As Sephardic Spice Girls, I find that we post many recipes that are suited for Shabbat and Jewish holidays. Cooking for Shabbat feels like it is my service to family and friends. My way of bringing holiness and spirituality to everyday living.

Two Shabbats ago, Alan and I had a wonderful group of friends gathered around our dining room table for lunch. I felt so privileged to have my friends and family enjoying the fruits of my labor — roast beef, caramelized chicken, roasted veggies, salads and yes, a classic shepherds pie.

There is nothing better in the world than a fabulous, old fashioned meat and potatoes dish like shepherds pie.

—Sharon

Shredded Beef Pastel (Potato Meat Pie)

Meat Filling

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 pounds beef (cheek, brisket or chuck)

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

1 bay leaf

1 cup water

1 14oz can crushed tomatoes

1 cup chopped cilantro

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 onions, thinly sliced

Mashed Potato

8-10 large Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and chopped

2 Tbsp salt (for boiling water)

1 Tbsp turmeric

Salt, to taste

½ tsp white pepper

2 egg yolks

Juice of 1 lemon

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 beaten egg (for egg wash)

• In a large pot, warm the oil over medium heat, then add the first onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the beef and brown on both sides. Stir in all the spices, bay leaf and cilantro. Add the water and crushed tomatoes and stir well. Cover the pot and simmer on low heat for 2 hours or until fork tender.

• In a frying pan, heat remaining olive oil over medium heat, then add onions, and sauté until golden brown. Set aside. •Remove the bay leaf from the meat, then set aside. When meat is at room temperature, shred it into thin pieces. Add the sautéed onion and mix well.

• Place the potatoes in a large pot filled with cold salted water and turmeric. Cook over medium low heat until the potatoes are fork tender, about 35 to 45 minutes. Drain the potatoes, making sure to reserve ½  cup of the cooking liquid. Add the salt, pepper, yolks, lemon juice and oil. Mash the potatoes and if the mash is too dry, add a bit of the reserved liquid. Split the mashed potato into two equal portions.  

• Grease the bottom of an oven proof baking dish. Layer one portion of the mashed potato evenly on the bottom. Layer the meat mixture. Spread second portion of mashed potato evenly on top and brush with egg yolk. Use a fork to etch a decorative pattern on the potatoes.

• Preheat the oven to 400 °F. Bake pastel for 50 to 60 minutes until the top is golden brown.

Allow the pastel to rest for a few minutes before slicing.

Serve warm.

Sharon Gomperts and Rachel Emquies Sheff have been friends since high school. The Sephardic Spice Girls project has grown from their collaboration on events for the Sephardic Educational Center in Jerusalem. Follow them
on Instagram @sephardicspicegirls and on Facebook at Sephardic Spice SEC Food. Website sephardicspicegirls.com/full-recipes.