Soapstone and Stories: Uncovering Winnipeg’s Artistic and Cultural Heart

Every visit to Winnipeg brings new surprises, and my most recent trip was a revelation of culture, nature, and history. I crafted a soapstone polar bear with Frederick Spence at The Forks, where his teachings added meaning and depth to every stroke. At GATHER, nestled within The Leaf, I enjoyed a dinner surrounded by lush greenery, making it hard to believe I was still in Winnipeg. My visit to the Canadian Museum for Human Rights was a powerful experience, moving from darkness to light in a journey of hope and resilience. I returned to the stunning Qaumajuq at the Winnipeg Art Gallery, explored the rich ecosystems of FortWhyte Alive, and dived into The Forks’ history on a Parks Canada tour.

The iconic Fort Garry Hotel offered the perfect blend of elegance and history as I explored Winnipeg’s historic rivers on a waterway tour. And then, I headed north with Churchill Wild on a wildlife safari—a true highlight of my adventure! Having first journeyed to Nanuk Lodge in 2018, where I saw polar bears and even wolves, this time I ventured to Seal River to witness the unforgettable combination of polar bears and beluga whales. Each visit only deepens my love for this part of Canada. Next time, I’m hoping to check out Niverville—who knows, maybe they’ll let me be honorary mayor for a day!

I had the most amazing experience learning soapstone carving from Frederick Spence at The Forks. Frederick, who was born and raised in Peguis First Nation, shared his incredible journey of reclaiming his identity and culture through art after overcoming significant life challenges. His guidance made the process of soapstone carving not just accessible but deeply fulfilling.

With Frederick’s help, I carefully selected my stone and sketched out a polar bear design. Using tools similar to wood carving, I was surprised by how easily the soapstone responded to the rasps. Each step was filled with joy as I watched the polar bear slowly emerge from the stone. I felt so fortunate to have such a generous and talented instructor who made this experience truly special. This workshop was more than just learning a new skill; it was about connecting with the art and the artist’s story. A meaningful highlight of my time in Winnipeg was the opportunity to work with such a skilled craftsman.

I had the most magical evening at GATHER in Winnipeg, right before heading off to see the polar bears! The restaurant is nestled within the stunning glass tower of The Leaf—a year-round tropical paradise in the Botanical Gardens at Assiniboine Park. Opened in December 2022, this architectural marvel houses an array of plants from over 100 countries, creating a vibrant, lush environment that feels like a summer escape, even in the depths of winter. The Botanical Gardens are a part of the expanded Assiniboine Park Zoo, which has been delighting visitors since 1904. From its early days as a simple animal exhibit, the zoo has evolved into one of Canada’s most impressive urban parks. The new building, with its innovative design, offers Winnipeggers and visitors alike a breathtaking, year-round experience. Exploring the tropical gardens, complete with butterflies and exotic plants, was the perfect way to spend a summer evening before our polar bear adventure. Winnipeg never ceases to amaze with its blend of history, nature, and cutting-edge design! In 2018, on my first visit to Winnipeg, I interviewed Dr. Stephen Petersen, head of conservation and research at Leatherdale International Polar Bear Conservation Centre and wrote about the zoo for Ms. Magazine.

Visiting the Canadian Museum for Human Rights in Winnipeg was an unforgettable experience. Opened on September 20, 2014, this museum is the first in the world solely dedicated to exploring human rights. It invites us all to reflect on our shared humanity through concepts like Ubuntu, Shalom, Aloha, and Ahimsa. As the museum celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, its messages of kindness, generosity, and human dignity are more relevant than ever. One of the most striking features is the journey from darkness to light, symbolized by the stunning alabaster “Hall of Hope.” This space, crafted from alabaster known for its healing properties, represents the transition from oppression to hope, inviting visitors to contemplate the possibility of healing and reconciliation. The entire museum’s design echoes this theme—you enter by walking down into the museum, descending into darkness, and as you explore, you ascend the alabaster ramp towards the light. This thoughtful progression mirrors the journey from despair to optimism and from injustice to understanding. The museum also showcases powerful exhibits like the red dress installation, which honors missing and murdered Indigenous women, and the Hall of Nations, which emphasizes the strength in diversity. The basalt rock garden, made from ancient fossils, and the clay beadwork project—10,000 beads created by Rebecca Belmore, symbolizing community and the potential for reconciliation—are equally impactful. The museum’s origins are deeply tied to the vision of the Asper family, particularly Israel Asper, who believed that Winnipeg needed a space to foster understanding and human rights. Their dream became a reality, creating a place where light literally and figuratively shines through, reminding us that even in the darkest times, there is hope. Visiting the Canadian Museum for Human Rights was a humbling experience that left me with a deep sense of the importance of protecting and promoting human rights. If you’re in Winnipeg, this is an absolute must-visit!

Qaumajuq at Winnipeg Art Gallery: A Must-See in Winnipeg! I was so excited to return to the Winnipeg Art Gallery (WAG) to experience Qaumajuq, the world’s only Inuit Art Centre, which opened in 2021. This stunning gallery is home to over 14,000 pieces of Inuit art, representing the rich cultural heritage of Inuit communities across Canada. The collection is a true celebration of the diverse voices and traditions of these communities, offering a deep and meaningful connection to the North. One of the highlights is the incredible three-story visible vault—a breathtaking glass enclosure that allows you to see thousands of pieces from the collection. I had the chance to tour this vault back in 2018, and it’s even more impressive now that it’s part of this expansive gallery. Don’t miss the opportunity to explore the rooftop sculpture garden with its stunning views and thoughtfully curated pieces. The WAG also offers fantastic children’s programming, making it a wonderful destination for families. And of course, the gift shop is a must-visit, filled with unique items that reflect the beauty and craftsmanship of Inuit art. I couldn’t resist buying a beautiful silver heart necklace and matching earrings by Jadeon Rathgeber from Turtle Island. The shop is full of treasures created by so many talented artists—buying earrings as souvenirs has always been my favorite way to keep the memories of my travels alive! Qaumajuq is not just a gallery—it’s a journey into the heart of Inuit culture, offering a space for reflection, learning, and connection. Whether you’re an art lover or simply curious about the North, this is a place you won’t want to miss when in Winnipeg! Exploring the beauty of FortWhyte Alive, home to a thriving herd of 40 bison, including about a dozen adorable babies born each year! The lakes here were actually formed from old mining pits—now transformed into stunning water features. It’s gorgeous to see and even better to experience by biking, hiking, or kayaking through this beautiful area. Such a treat to be surrounded by nature in Winnipeg!

Sylvie from Parks Canada took me on a tour of The Forks and it was such an eye-opening experience! This historic site has over 6,000 years of history, rooted in Treaty 1 territory and the homeland of many Indigenous peoples.A few highlights from the tour:

• Learned about the devastating 1950 spring river flood, where the Red River overflowed, and people were canoeing in the streets! The Legislative Building was underwater, and the Floodway was later built to manage snowmelt from Lake Winnipeg.
• Discovered that The Forks Market used to be horse stables, and the arches are a nod to that history.
• The tallgrass prairie here is home to bees and monarch butterflies—the latter now endangered because they only eat milkweed, which is disappearing with the loss of prairie. Less than 1% of this vital ecosystem remains worldwide. Planting native gardens can help protect these species!
• The Oodena Celebration Circle is the heart of the city—a place where people gather for drumming, powwows, and sharing knowledge. Such a powerful connection to the past and present.
• The Forks has long been a landmark, where the Red and Assiniboine Rivers meet. This “superhighway” was crucial during the fur trade era, with furs transported from Canada to Europe. The Hudson’s Bay Company, North America’s oldest company, played a significant role here. So much history packed into this place, from the battles of the fur trade to the resilience of the Métis Nation. The shadows cast on the stone paths mark 450 million years of geological history, showing tools that shaped the prairies. An unforgettable journey through time.

Had an incredible time on the waterways tour, experiencing Winnipeg’s rich history from a whole new perspective! Gliding along the Red and Assiniboine Rivers, I got to see historic sites, beautiful old buildings, stunning churches, and fascinating museums—all from the water. The Forks, where these two rivers meet, has been a gathering place and a hub of trade for over 6,000 years. Indigenous peoples, fur traders, and settlers all converged at this confluence, making it a landmark of cultural exchange and history. Exploring the city from this vantage point really brings its past to life. Staying at the historic Fort Garry Hotel in Winnipeg was an unforgettable experience, blending timeless elegance with a deep sense of history. This iconic hotel, which opened its doors in 1913, was built by the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway and quickly became a symbol of Winnipeg’s golden era. Designed in the Château-style, similar to Canada’s other grand railway hotels, Fort Garry stands as a National Historic Site and a testament to the city’s prosperous past. Located just a short walk from Union Station, the hotel played a crucial role during the peak of rail travel, providing luxury accommodations to travelers from all over the world. Its central location also makes it the perfect base for exploring Winnipeg, with easy access to The Forks, where the Red and Assiniboine rivers meet—a site rich in history and culture. The architecture of Fort Garry is breathtaking, from the grand lobby to the opulent guest rooms, each echoing the stories of the past. Over the years, it has welcomed many notable guests, including Queen Elizabeth II and Louis Armstrong, adding to its storied legacy. You can relax at Ten Spa, a modern oasis within this historic gem, or at The Palm Lounge with live jazz. Fort Garry is not just a place to stay—it’s a living piece of Winnipeg’s history, offering a unique and luxurious experience that connects you to the city’s vibrant past.

Grateful for my recent visit to Winnipeg! From the breathtaking Forks, where the rivers converge, to the inspiring Nurses of the First World War statue, every moment was a delight. I loved carving at the soapstone workshop, spotting bison at FortWhyte, and exploring Qaumajuq at the Winnipeg Art Gallery. The waterways tour and Parks Canada walking tour of the Forks area added such richness to my experience! I loved my stay at the charming Fort Garry Hotel, my return visit to the impactful Canadian Museum for Human Rights, and being inspired by the iconic 007 statue honoring Sir William Samuel Stephenson—known as “Intrepid” and a real-life inspiration for James Bond! I LOVED my incredible Churchill Wildlife walking safari adventure with polar bears and beluga whales—what an unforgettable journey in Canada! Next time, I hope to check out Niverville—maybe they’ll let me be mayor for a day (or even an hour)!    READ MORE: Birds, Bears, and Belugas Safari with Churchill Wild Seal River Lodge 2024

• VIDEOS: Churchill Wild Polar Bear Safari 2024 at Seal River Heritage Lodge Aug 8-17
• We Said Go Travel
  • Polar Bear Encounters and Northern Wonders: Adventures with Churchill Wild
  • Where the Wild Meets the Arctic: A Churchill Wild Safari Experience
  • Soapstone and Stories: Uncovering Winnipeg’s Artistic and Cultural Heart
• Churchill Wild
  • Reels and Reels of Polar Bears by Churchill Wild with Lisa’s videos from 2024 visit at Seal River Lodge
  • The Magic of Nanuk. History, Memories and Photos by Churchill Wild
    • “Lisa Ellen Niver, the founder of WeSaidGoTravel, also wrote a series of articles on walking with polar bears at Nanuk for different publications, after her visit. “

Walking with Polar Bears and Wolves at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge 2018

• USA Today 10Best: Clear your mind in these open spaces made for exploring
• HUFF POST PERSONAL: ‘My Octopus Teacher’ Was Mesmerizing But There’s 1 Thing That Deeply Troubled Me“When I was walking in the Canadian wilderness with tour operator Churchill Wild to see wolves and polar bears…“
• Ms. Magazine:
  • 10 Global Travel Adventures To Inspire Global Eco-Activism
  • Polar Bears Can’t Vote, So You Have To!
• We Said Go Travel
  • Part One: Do You Want to Walk with Polar Bears? and on JJ
  • Part Two: Are You Ready for an Adventure? Walk with Polar Bears & on JJ
  • Part Three: How Do You Get To Churchill Wild? & on JJ
  • Are You Ready to Discover Wonderful Winnipeg? and on JJ
  • Tell Me More About Walking with Polar Bears
• VIDEOS: Nanuk Lodge Video Playlist
• Facebook album from Nanuk Lodge
• Bored Panda:
  • Do You Want To Walk With Polar Bears?
  • I walked with the animals