Up Front
Up Front.
In American Jewish cooking, honey reigns. Good thing: The variousfarmer\’s markets are reliable sources for excellent honeys.
At first glance, the round challahs of the High Holidays mightseem to be no more than the ritualized version of a GeneralMills-like strategy. How could a bread that is braided 11 months ofthe year suddenly taste different the month it is made round? Eggsare eggs, flour is flour, yeast is yeast, etc., right? But, somehow,the challahs of the High Holidays — domed crowns of golden dough,studded with raisins, sitting atop a holiday table like a princess\’pillow — do taste different.
Los Angelesbaker Mark Stark has taken the Greatest Hits of American Jewish Cookery and put them into a format that\’s so kid friendly, readers might be tempted to color in the pictures.
Just one floor beneath the legendary Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel, there\’s a large room that, for much of the week, remains locked. The chef has the key. So does the catering manager. But if they ever want to so much as crack open the door, they can\’t do so alone. First, they need the rabbi.
Think kosher food, and you think blintzes, kishke, brisket, tsimmes, matzo balls, corned beef on rye.\n\nYou don\’t immediately think of fajitas, smoked-salmon quiche, turkey burgers with onion rings, rosemary-grilled breast of chicken with braised leeks and forest mushrooms, or flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce.
One month after two Palestinian suicide bombers killed 14 Israeli civilians in a Jerusalem market, Bethlehem is the only West Bank town still cut off from both Israel and its neighboring Arab communities.
First, please understand that it has nothing to dowith health. The laws of kashrut — the food restrictions imposedupon Jews by the Bible and the Talmud — were not intended to keep ushealthy.
\”So, tell me, what are you looking for in awoman?\” I ask.
\”Someone kind and gentle, intelligent, educated,cultured, witty, fun, a professional, independent, but interested intraditional things, Jewish, haimish, warm, family-oriented…andthin, tall, attractive, blond, well-dressed.\” He continues, but Irealize already that I know him. He\’s my 3-year old. The open mouthof the infant: \”I want, I want, I want.\”
I know what he wants: a Playboy playmate who willadore him, cook like his mother but make no demands on hissoul.
He isn\’t alone. He belongs to a whole culture ofchildishness.