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April 13, 2016

“Cook, Pray, Eat Kosher” is the best of both worlds

Mia Adler Ozair’s new cookbook isn’t just about kosher recipes. It also details the spiritual meaning behind Jewish food and how it can be incorporated into everyday family life.

“Cook, Pray, Eat Kosher: The Essential Kosher Cookbook for the Jewish Soul” (Oakhurst Publishing; Feldheim Publishers) includes Ashkenazic and Sephardic recipes — some of which are appropriate for Passover — as well as explanations of connections between food and the neshamah (soul). There are sections on why blessings are said before and after eating, the spiritual nature of the holidays, the mitzvah of making challah, and quotes from tzadikim (righteous people) and Jewish writings. 

“Cook, Pray, Eat Kosher” is the best of both worlds Read More »

Shuk art: Two 20-somethings are changing the face of a Jerusalem landmark

Solomon Souza, looking bored, stretched out on a mattress lying on the floor of the apartment he shares with Berel Hahn in the artsy Jerusalem neighborhood of Nachalot.

“So, should we paint something, bro?” Souza said.

“A man, a woman or a dog?” Hahn replied, barely glancing up from his cellphone.

“Not a dog,” Souza said.

A few minutes later, they were out the door, ducking through a series of narrow alleys until they arrived at Machane Yehuda. 

During the day, Machane Yehuda is a labyrinth of vegetable stands, spice vendors and all manner of specialty shops and restaurants. By night, when metal shutters come down on most of the businesses, it becomes a hotbed of nightlife — and, for Hahn and Souza, one giant canvas.

One shutter at a time, the pair has turned Machane Yehuda — known as the shuk — into an art gallery, using spray cans to create vibrant murals of everything from rabbis and biblical scenes to Israeli prime ministers and one of their roommates.

The images are both historical and contemporary. One recent subject — actress Roseanne Barr, a vocal supporter of Israel — dropped by the shuk in March to take a look at her likeness.

“I kind of see [the whole shuk] as one big painting,” Hahn said. “Each painting is just a pixel.”

Souza, whose friends call him Sunny, is the one who actually wields the spray cans, while Hahn is the dreamer, the big thinker. Their project was originally Hahn’s idea. 

Now, he acts as Souza’s informal manager, obtaining permission from shop owners to paint their shutters, fielding calls from reporters and standing by Souza while he paints so that curious passersby won’t break his focus. Hahn has made himself a familiar face among the mostly Sephardic, mostly middle-aged men who run the vegetable stands.

Souza, 22, grew up in a suburb of London until his mother “realized she was a Jew” and brought him to the West Bank settlement of Efrat, about 20 kilometers southeast of Jerusalem. After returning to London to complete his high school education, he moved back to Israel for good.

Standing over 6 feet tall with a large, reddish beard, Hahn, 26, grew up in the Chabad movement in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. His Chasidic roots are apparent in his soft-spoken and sincere manner, as well as in his propensity to speak dreamily about his artistic vision and his love of Yiddishkeit.

The idea for the murals first popped into his head when he was wandering through the shuk on a Saturday, when the market takes on a funereal quiet.

For a while, he let the idea stew. At the time, he was working a night-shift job applying carbon fiber strips to the ceilings of parking lots for structural support. His crew would pick him up at Machane Yehuda for the jobs.

“It began to haunt me — it’s almost as if the shutters were screaming,” he said.

The only things standing between him and a project that would fundamentally change the character of the market at Jerusalem’s cultural epicenter were a few cans of spray paint.

“A friend of ours was like, ‘You know what, I’ll reimburse you. Go spend a few hundred shekels on paint and just start,’” Hahn said. “So we got permission [from a shopkeeper], and after the first night, there were requests for more and more.”

Souza was living in the artistic mecca of Tsfat in Israel’s north when he got a phone call about the idea from Hahn, whom he’d known from their time as a yeshiva in Nachlaot.

After a few trips down to Jerusalem, Souza decided to stay.

“I said to myself, ‘I should be there, I should be there,’ ” he said. “I got back to Tsfat, and I was like, ‘Why am I here?’ ”

While Souza seems content simply to paint, Hahn waxes poetic about his vision of awakening an artistic movement centered on Jerusalem’s diverse cultural heritage. 

“The true character of Jerusalem is a festival ground,” Hahn said. “When the Temple stood, people came three times a year to party.”

Their immediate goal is to paint every shutter in the market. But Hahn hopes to eventually to reanimate Jerusalem’s roots by organizing a Shabbat festival to showcase the city’s kaleidoscope of indigenous influences.

“Imagine a Shabbat where you can really taste all the flavors of the Jewish culture — each community within the Jewish nation represented, all of their unique traditions represented as authentically as possible,” he said.

There are still more than 100 shutters to go before the painting phase of the project is complete. A trapezoidal loop off the main alley known as the Iraqi shuk is totally devoid of murals, perhaps because there are few nightlife spots there. (“There would be if I was painting there,” Souza said.)

But before heading out on this Wednesday night, lying on the mattress in his living room, Souza looked content to remain where he was. Hahn was insistent — perhaps because there was a reporter present — and his enthusiasm eventually won out: The reluctant artist stuffed some spray cans into a tote bag and the two were out the door.

Arriving at a shutter on the outskirts of the market, Souza rolled a cigarette and lit it, while Hahn retrieved some cardboard vegetable boxes from the day’s commerce to place underfoot for any errant paint. 

The topic of the mural that night was close to home: Rabbi Gershon Avtson, head of Yeshiva Beis Menachem in Nachlaot, where the two first met.

“He definitely brought us together,” Souza said.

Finishing his cigarette, and then another, Souza opened a picture on his iPhone of the rabbi gazing off into middle distance. The artist then pulled a mask over his face to filter out paint fumes and went to work.

Souza’s painting sessions regularly draw a crowd, and even on this midweek night, people passing by a main traffic artery bordering the shuk stopped to watch, take photos and ask questions.

“Does it cost money?” several passersby asked Hahn, seeming surprised by the fact that the entire project, Jerusalem’s latest artistic sensation, is the work of two guys with a big idea and some spray paint.

“It costs a lot of money,” Hahn said. “If somebody offers you coffee at their house, it’s not free.”

Hahn estimates the project has so far cost upward of 20,000 shekels — about $5,000 — in paint alone, funded by a friend of theirs who prefers to stay anonymous. That figure doesn’t account for the time Hahn and Souza donate.

“It’s a gift to the city,” he said. 

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Hindenburg Park sign debated at meeting

The debate over a recently installed sign at a Los Angeles County park near La Crescenta where Nazi supporters once rallied heated up during a public meeting April 7 that attracted more than 100 people. 

At the center of attention: a 6-foot-high sign reading, “Welcome to Hindenburg Park,” which was installed at the entrance of Crescenta Valley Community Regional Park in February. 

While a historical plaque previously installed inside of the park explains the site’s historical ties to the German-American community, nothing mentions the pro-Nazi rallies organized by the German American Bund that were held there during the 1930s and 1940s. 

“Members of our community brought it to our attention, and then we decided that the sign needed to be removed and that we didn’t like the representation — not the representation but the fact that the sign does not give the entire story of what took place at the park,” Jason Moss, executive director of the Jewish Federation of Greater San Gabriel and Pomona Valleys, said in an interview before the public meeting held at the Sparr Heights Community Center in Glendale after some area residents raised concerns. 

“This is what our mission is, to serve as the voice for the local Jewish community,” he added after the meeting.

The Los Angeles County Human Relations Commission, a 15-member body made up of L.A. County Board of Supervisors’ appointees, convened the meeting. Commission President Susanne Cumming, Commission Vice President Sandra Thomas and Robin Toma, executive director of the commission, presided over the meeting on behalf of the entire commission. 

The nonprofit German-American cultural organization Tricentennial Foundation paid $2,500 for the sign to be installed. It contains English and German — the phrase “Willkommen zum” (German for “welcome to”) precedes the words “Hindenburg Park.” Official seals of the County of Los Angeles Department of Parks and Recreation and the Los Angeles County Board of Supervisors appear at the bottom.

The park falls within the district of L.A. County Supervisor Mike Antonovich, and its sign pays tribute to a section of the park that was formerly owned by the German American League and where various German-American cultural events took place. The park got its name in 1934 to honor World War I military officer and second president of Germany Paul von Hindenburg. 

Aside from the activities of the Bund at the site, some are troubled that Hindenburg was Germany’s president at the time that Adolf Hitler became chancellor. After Hindenburg’s death in 1934, Hitler assumed the presidency before abolishing the position altogether and declaring himself Fuhrer.

The German American League sold Hindenburg Park to Los Angeles County in 1957 and the county proceeded to incorporate it into the surrounding Crescenta Valley Park. The name Hindenburg Park was all but forgotten until the Tricentennial Foundation successfully lobbied the L.A. County Board of Supervisors to rededicate the Hindenburg Park section in 1992, which resulted in the placement of the plaque there.  

During the meeting, many people spoke in opposition to the sign. Peter Dreier, the E.P. Clapp Distinguished Professor of Politics at Occidental College and author of an April 3 article in the Huffington Post titled “Mike Antonovich, Tear Down That Sign!” said he shared a view espoused by Moss — that there is the need for an additional sign explaining both the good and the bad history of the park.

“I agree with Mr. Moss that we should include a sign on the site that tells us about the remarkable heritage of the German-American culture and the people of this area, and we should also include on that sign something telling us about the odious and ugly part of our local history and the Nazi rallies and the anti-Semitism and the racism that was part of this culture as well,” he said. “We cannot erase that history, we need to learn from it, and the only way to learn from it is to allow people to know it.”

Bruce Rosenauer, the son and grandson of World War II veterans who has lived in La Crescenta since 1951, expressed a different viewpoint: 

“My grandfather carried the mail for over 50 years. We went to several mail carrier picnics in Hindenburg Park in the ’50s. The second world war was still fresh in people’s minds. A lot of the mail carriers fought in the South Pacific and in Europe. These picnics went on for several years at Hindenburg Park. If anyone was outraged, it wasn’t mentioned by these veterans. Why is the outrage now by people who weren’t involved?” he said. 

“You can’t look at yesterday through today’s eyes,” he added.

La Canada-Flintridge resident Nalini Lasiewicz, of Dutch heritage, said those opposed to the sign because of a belief that Hindenburg was responsible for the Holocaust need to brush up on their history. 

“For Hindenburg to be blamed for the psychotic madness of Hitler is inaccurate,” she said.

She said she supports the idea of creating an additional plaque that would explain the entire history of the park, even its once being a site for pro-Nazi rallies. 

“I like the idea of more history,” she said. “I think something good will come out of this.” 

The meeting did not result in any formal decision regarding the fate of the sign. Kaye Michelson, special assistant to the county of Los Angeles Department of Parks and Recreation, told the Journal the commissioners who oversaw the meeting “will take the information back to the full commission [and] the full commission will make a recommendation to the Department of Parks and Recreation” regarding the sign. 

The Commission on Human Relations meets the first Monday of every month. 

Hindenburg Park sign debated at meeting Read More »

Making the murderer of ‘A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder’

“A Gentleman’s Guide to Love & Murder,” the musical currently at the Ahmanson Theatre, is a jaunty tale about a serial killer. But he’s hardly Sweeney Todd.

Monty Navarro (Kevin Massey) is an impoverished young man in Edwardian England who has just learned he is actually an aristocrat. Turns out his recently deceased mother was booted out of her snobbish family decades earlier because she dared to marry a poor Castilian. Monty is a likeable gentleman, but the woman he loves won’t marry him because he’s a pauper. So he is beyond intrigued when he discovers that only eight relatives stand between him and the family dukedom.  Heads begin to roll — literally — as Monty starts bumping off those inconvenient next of kin.

One of the production’s hilarious conceits is having one actor (John Rapson) play all eight victims — male and female — from the noble D’Ysquith clan.  

The comedic romp won four Tony Awards in 2014, including best musical and best book for Robert Freedman, who is also the musical’s co-lyricist. Freedman’s fellow lyricist is Steven Lutvak, who earned a Tony nomination for penning the show’s score with Freedman.

During a recent interview at Art’s Deli in Studio City, Freedman described the challenges of making a multiple murderer the good guy. “We had to be sure he came off as the underdog, so you feel for his plight,” said Freedman, who lives in Sherman Oaks. “And we were careful to make every single person he kills so totally odious and hateable.  They’re all privileged and wealthy, rude and hypocritical haves who don’t care about the have-nots.”

Even Lady Hyacinth D’Ysquith, who aspires to philanthropy, “just wants to use that to elevate her status,” Freedman said. “She has less interest in the ‘poor, disgusting lepers’ of India, as she calls them, than cementing her place in society.”

Having one actor portray all the D’Ysquiths “allows viewers to laugh at the murders, because they know that this character will be coming back,” Lutvak said in a telephone interview from his New York home.

It doesn’t hurt that Lutvak and Freedman went out of their way to make the murders amusing and over-the-top, including when a profoundly untalented actress accidentally gets her head blown off after Morty puts real bullets in a prop gun. Another D’Ysquith’s decapitated head pops off his neck like a Champagne cork. “It’s funny; it’s not like Anne Boleyn,” Freedman said. Yet another D’Ysquith is stung to death by bees chasing him as he frenetically runs back and forth across the stage, while Monty and his wife-to-be sing a tender duet in the foreground.

Freedman and Lutvak, both raised in traditional Jewish homes, said they identify with Monty’s outsider status. “I’m a gay man who just got married, when I had never previously imagined a world in which I could ever get married,” Lutvak said.

Freedman, a longtime member of Adat Ari El, noted that, “As a Jew, you’re always aware of history. And there’s nothing quite as shocking to me right now as the anti-Semitism going on in Europe and on college campuses.”

Lutvak, 56, grew up in a “modern kosher home” in Queens and on Long Island; his greatest sin, as a teenager, was serving Kentucky Fried Chicken to his friends on the family’s dinner plates. His parents came home early and discovered the travesty. “I think we ran the plates through the dishwasher twice,” Lutvak recalled.

As a young man, Lutvak first earned acclaim as a cabaret artist for a comic song he wrote and performed called “Bagel Maker to the Czar.” Some years later, he penned incidental music for a one-woman show about Holocaust partisan Hannah Senesh.

Freedman, 58, was raised in Gardena and Cypress, in Orange County, where he attended the Conservative Temple Beth Emet and became the far west regional president of United Synagogue Youth (USY). He began writing short musicals for USY skits, including a “Wizard of Oz” parody called “The Wizard of UJ” — pronounced “udge” — referring to the former University of Judaism, now American Jewish University.  He continued writing musicals not only as a musical theater major at UCLA, but also as a youth counselor at Temple Ner Tamid in Van Nuys.  Before “Gentleman’s Guide,” Freedman was mostly known as a writer of TV shows and movies.

Freedman and Lutvak met while both were enrolled in the musical theater department at New York University in the 1980s; their teachers included the late, great conductor and composer Leonard Bernstein. The artists admired each other’s work, but didn’t directly collaborate on a musical until the early 2000s. Their first effort was a project involving Upton Sinclair’s fraught run for governor of California in the 1930s.  Their second would become “A Gentleman’s Guide to Love & Murder.” The musical got its start when Lutvak told Freedman about an epiphany he’d had back in his undergraduate days at the State University of New York at Binghamton. One sleepless night, he chanced to watch the 1949 film “Kind Hearts and Coronets,” about a pauper who knocks off his rich relations. Lutvak liked the concept of a gentleman who also happened to be a murderer. “I sat up in bed, and I thought, ‘My God, that’s a musical,’ ” Lutvak recalled.  “And it’s mine to do.”

Easier said than done. Lutvak said the film’s company put up myriad obstacles to granting him rights to an adaptation; when it briefly relented — before changing course again — in the 2000s, Lutvak invited Freedman to collaborate with him.

“The story makes a sly, satiric commentary about the British class system,” Freedman said of why he was drawn to the project.

It wasn’t until 2011 that the co-writers finally prevailed in a lawsuit the film company had brought against them; they got around the other legal blocks by re-writing the show to make it rely solely on the novel that inspired the film.

In the 1907 novel, Ray Horniman’s “Israel Rank: The Autobiography of a Criminal,” the protagonist is ostracized from his upper-crust clan because his father was Jewish. In the 1949 film, the character is half-Italian “because making a Jew a multiple murderer was unthinkable so close to the end of the Holocaust,” Lutvak said.

But, Freedman insisted, “I didn’t want to write a show about a Jewish serial killer. Like many Jews, I don’t want to encourage any negativity toward Jews for any reason. So we made our character Castilian, which is funnier. We didn’t want to pick a group that has been persecuted over the generations, because that’s not funny at all.”

For tickets and information about the show, which runs through May 1, visit centertheatregroup.org

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Russia jets make ‘simulated attack’ passes near U.S. destroyer

Two Russian warplanes with no visible weaponry flew simulated attack passes near a U.S. guided missile destroyer in the Baltic Sea on Tuesday, a U.S. official said, describing it as one of the most aggressive interactions in recent memory.

The repeated flights by the Sukhoi SU-24 warplanes, which also flew near the ship a day earlier, were so close they created wake in the water, with 11 passes, the official said.

A Russian KA-27 Helix helicopter also made seven passes around the USS Donald Cook, taking pictures. The nearest Russian territory was about 70 nautical miles away in its enclave of Kaliningrad, which sits between Lithuania and Poland.

“They tried to raise them (the Russian aircraft) on the radio but they did not answer,” the official said, speaking on condition of anonymity, adding the U.S. ship was in international waters.

The incident came as NATO plans its biggest build-up in eastern Europe since the Cold War to counter what the alliance, and in particular the Baltic states and Poland, consider to be a more aggressive Russia.

The three Baltic states, which joined both NATO and the European Union in 2004, have asked NATO for a permanent presence of battalion-sized deployments of allied troops in each of their territories. A NATO battalion typically consists of 300 to 800 troops.

Moscow denies any intention to attack the Baltic states.

The USS Donald Cook had just wrapped up a port visit in the Polish city of Gdynia on April 11 and then proceeded out to sea with a Polish helicopter on board.

The first incident took place on April 11, when two SU-24 jets flew about 20 passes near the Donald Cook, coming within 1,000 yards (meters) of the ship, at about 100 feet (30 meters) in altitude.

That was followed by even closer passes by the SU-24s the following day and the passes by the Russian helicopter.

The U.S. defense official said the commanding officer of the Donald Cook believed that Tuesday's incident was “unsafe and unprofessional,” but cautioned that a formal U.S. military review of the matter was underway.

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Rice and beans for Ashkenazi Jews on Passover?

Seder tables in Conservative Jewish homes may look different this Passover, and it’s not because of a new popular cookbook or changes to the haggadah

It’s because the Conservative movement has officially decided that kitniyot — which include common foods such as rice, corn and beans — are now permitted for Ashkenazi Jews on Passover, overruling about seven centuries of Ashkenazi custom that banned those foods. The Passover prohibition persisted even though all Jewish legal authorities agree that kitniyot are not chametz, which is why so many other Jews, including Reform and Israeli Conservative Jews, as well as Orthodox Sephardic Jews, eat them during the eight days of Passover. 

The technicalities of the new ruling can be a bit confusing, but they’re laid out by the Conservative movement’s Committee on Jewish Law and Standards (CJLS) in a legal document titled “A Teshuvah Permitting Ashkenazim to Eat Kitniyot on Pesach” published in November. It removes all restrictions on kitniyot for Conservative Jews — restrictions that Orthodox Ashkenazi Jews will continue to follow.

The opinion, written by Rabbi Avram Israel Reisner of Baltimore and Rabbi Amy Levin of Bridgeport, Conn., was approved by the Conservative Rabbinical Assembly by a vote of 19-1. Its argument centers around three key points: First, that the custom of Ashkenazi Jews to not eat kitniyot on Passover is lacking in strong rational justification. Second, access to inexpensive foods like rice and beans reduces the high cost of observing a kosher Passover for American Jews. And third, for the increasing number of people who maintain vegan or gluten-free diets, rice, beans and other grains are important sources of nutrition.

A similar responsum written in Israel by Rabbi David Golinkin allows Ashkenazim to eat kitniyot on Passover; it was approved in 1989 by Israel’s Conservative movement. The Israeli responsa has now been translated to English and was voted on by the CJLS in December, passing 15-3. The Israeli responsa draws a similar conclusion, albeit through different reasoning.

Prohibitions against kitniyot are not based on Torah law or rabbinic law, but rather on Ashkenazi custom. About 700 years ago, rabbis in France began referring to a custom of some Jewish communities to avoid kitniyot, a label derived from the word katan (little), which includes rice, millet and legumes broadly, and beans, corn, peas, lentils and soybeans, more specifically. Everyone agrees that chametz — leaven derived from wheat, oats, spelt, rye and barley — is strictly prohibited on Passover. The custom to avoid kitniyot derived from two precautions: First, because kitniyot are sometimes grown in close vicinity to the five chametz grains, rabbinic authorities worried that chametz might mix with and accidentally contaminate otherwise kosher-for-Passover food. Rabbinic authorities also were concerned that Jews might confuse chametz with kitniyot, as they share some resemblance. 

Today, according to Orthodox law, the custom to avoid kitniyot on Passover is binding on Jews of Ashkenazi descent, regardless of where they live. But Sephardic Jews, whatever their denominations, do not follow this custom and enjoy the full range of kitniyot products throughout Passover, making Passover’s shopping experience and diet easier and more enjoyable. 

Rabbi Elliot Dorff, a professor of philosophy at American Jewish University and chairman of the CJLS, who eats fish but not meat, said that despite the ruling, his wife plans to continue to observe the custom, so there will be no kitniyot in their home during Passover. Dorff stressed that the Conservative movement’s change “should not be the occasion for looking down your nose, either at the people who do eat kitniyot or people who do not.”

One issue the teshuvah touches on, and which Dorff mentioned in the context of eating at other people’s homes on Passover, is that even under halachah, there is no issue with using kosher-for-Passover utensils that have come in contact with kitniyot, which is not true of Passover-kosher utensils that have come in contact with chametz.

“Kitniyot cannot become chametz,” the teshuvah says. 

Additionally, derivatives of kitniyot — such as rice oil — remain fully acceptable for Ashkenazim who continue to hold by the custom.

The teshuvah guides the reader through the historical rabbinic debate on the topic, highlighting those who believed in the custom, those who thought it stringent but nevertheless thought it should remain, and those who thought it was a mistake.

Rabbeinu Peretz, for example, wrote in the 13th century that there’s no doubt kitniyot is not chametz, but added, “Were we to permit kitniyot, [people] might come to substitute and permit [grain-based] porridge.” And while Peretz noted the Talmud allows rice on Passover, “This was specifically in their day, when all were fluent in the laws of prohibition and permission.”

But Jacob Emden, an 18th-century German-Jewish scholar known as Ya’avetz, wrote that his father, Tzvi Hirsch Ashkenazi, would “rant” against the custom of avoiding kitniyot, largely on the basis that they are “available cheaply and easily,” and that their exclusion forces Ashkenazi Jews to bake and consume more and more matzo, increasing the chance that they’ll inadvertently consume chametz. (In those days many families baked their own matzo, which requires sharp precision.)

Ya’avetz wrote that his father, also known as the Chacham Tzvi, awaited the day when scholars would abolish the custom but did not support doing so “without the agreement of the majority.”

But even with a majority agreement, the teshuvah notes, rabbinic authorities cited the opinion of Maimonides, perhaps the greatest rabbinic scholar in Jewish history, that “only a greater court than the originators” has the authority to reverse not just law, but custom, too.

In justifying its ruling, the Conservative responsa begins by casting doubt on the possibility of mixing chametz with kitniyot “in the present age when we purchase our flours, rice and beans in discrete packages, well-marked as to their content, under governmental supervision.” A footnote, though, does caution against buying in bulk on Passover from any grocers that dispense food from bins, such as in some natural food stores. 

While acknowledging the importance of maintaining customs, the teshuvah’s authors note that while some Jewish communities “insist upon dressing as did the Jews of Poland several centuries ago, in our community that has been allowed to change.”

The ultimate rationale behind the Conservative committee’s ruling comes down to the practicalities of economics and nutrition, and their belief that “resistance to change is the sole reason not to consider a change” in this custom.

With the growth in vegetarianism, the authors argue, beans, for example, “serve in the absence of meat as a significant source of protein.”

“It’s about time!” Rabbi David Wolpe of Sinai Temple wrote in an email to the Journal when asked about his thoughts on the ruling. He said he understands “the force of custom,” but, as a vegetarian, he has been eating kitniyot over Passover for years.

“It was based on a misunderstanding and lack of information, so to my fellow kitniyot consumers, welcome to a Pesach no less kosher and much more nourishing,” Wolpe said.

“We now have many more people who are vegans, and we also have people who are known to have gluten allergies,” Dorff notes. “For them, what is permissible on Passover is much more restrictive than it is for the rest of us. Especially for vegans, there was really nothing to eat on Passover. There was really very little, if you do not allow kitniyot.”

“The positive mitzvah of joy on the holiday will not be well expressed on the depleted table of those who do not eat fish or meat, or even cheese and eggs,” responsa authors Reisner and Levin write, adding that the halachic aphorism that the Torah wants to protect the Jewish people’s money is relevant in increasing access to relatively inexpensive foods, like beans and rice, and thereby alleviating the financial pressures many Jews feel when shopping for expensive Passover products.

Rabbi Micah Peltz of Temple Beth Sholom in Cherry Hill, N.J., the lone holdout on the otherwise unanimous committee, said he doesn’t believe the decision to lift the restriction on kitniyot is justified by the teshuvah’s reasoning. Peltz said law and custom are changeable, but only when done to “address an ethical dissonance between halakha and the prevailing values of our generation,” which he believes is not the case here. He wrote this with four other rabbis in a January op-ed for the South Jersey Jewish Voice.

In an interview with the Journal on April 11, Peltz said he thinks the economic benefits of allowing kitniyot are limited, as they won’t replace the most expensive Passover food items and because many kitniyot products still require a special kosher-for-Passover certification. He said he could also foresee the ruling creating a division among Ashkenazi Jews, even as it may help bridge a divide between Ashkenazim and Sephardim.

“Kitniyot is not law. It is tradition, and I think that’s something that’s very powerful for people, and I think by throwing off the tradition for everyone en masse, by making that statement, I think it does more harm than good,” Peltz said.

The Reform movement has never prohibited kitniyot. Rabbi Leora Kaye, program director for the Union for Reform Judaism, said the reasoning is simple: “Kitniyot is not chametz, and therefore there is no prohibition against eating kitniyot.” Like Dorff, though, she understands that avoiding kitniyot is an “integral piece” of how some Jews observe Passover.

Kosher-for-Passover-certified kitniyot products have become increasingly available in the United States over the past few years, particularly since the Orthodox Union announced in early 2013 that it would certify products with kitniyot that are kosher for Passover. In Los Angeles, some kosher grocers, such as Glatt Mart, Elat Market and Cambridge Farms, sell kitniyot products on Passover, while others, such as Western Kosher, do not.

Dorff said that, based on the preponderance of Passover kitniyot products available in stores in Israel, he expects they will become more and more common in the U.S., as well.

“If Israel is at all a model for us, my guess is that not only this year but in [future] years, there will be more and more of those things,” Dorff said. 

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Bay area chef revives tradition of supper clubs

What’s the difference between a “pop-up” restaurant and a supper club? About 50 years.

Intimate dining rooms had all but faded into a thing of the past until recently, when the idea re-emerged among millennials as the underground or “pop-up” restaurant. While these smaller, informal dining arrangements are similar to the traditional supper club in basic function, the spirit has changed. In today’s so-called supper clubs, the love and warmth of a chef who truly enjoys cooking a good meal for friends is often superseded by a desire to be exclusive or edgy. 

But chef Noah Jacob doesn’t go for the clubby part of supper club.

With his Bay Area-based gastronomic venture, Comestible Catering & Supper Club, Jacob has given new life to the supper club tradition. At Comestible events, the atmosphere is light-hearted and carried by the laughter and chatter of family, as well as friends new and old. The meals are skillfully prepared, yet unpretentious. There is a sense of fresh creativity and energy in this old-fashioned affair. 

Comestible caters events both large and small, kosher and non-kosher. The team of chefs and culinary entrepreneurs are actively involved in the local Jewish community, often hosting events for the San Francisco Jewish Federation and the Jewish Film Festival, as well as elaborate Passover seders. 

It all began when Jacob and a friend, chef Tim Symes, slaughtered a lamb in Jacob’s garage at his Northern California home. But even before that, Jacob had long been passionately engaged in all aspects of the world of food. 

When Jacob was 14 years old, he began his first job in a Portland restaurant as a dishwasher. “Working as a dishwasher gave me great respect for people who do those jobs, the dirty jobs, the less-desired jobs, the physically hard jobs. … I’m sure it’s because of what I learned in those years that I make it a priority to treat my staff as I would like to be treated,” Jacob said, looking back on the experience.

Jacob continued to work in restaurants through high school and college, but when he moved to New York City in 2001, he gave up cooking to pursue a career in finance. After several years in the financial sector, Jacob got married and moved with his new wife, Dori, to San Francisco. It was then Jacob realized that it was cooking, not finance, that made him happy. Jacob explained, “I had a strong connection to my cultural Jewish heritage. … I was hoping to have that be a piece of what I was going to do next.” 

Jacob heard about a new Jewish deli opening in the Mission District of San Francisco, Wise Sons. He tracked down the owners, told them he wanted to be a part of their team and that he’d do whatever they needed, even without payment. “I just wanted to be back in the kitchen learning,” Jacob said. For the next year, Jacob worked at the deli, where he was trained to smoke and cure meats, slice fish, make pickles and prepare vegetables with speed and accuracy. 

 It was around this time that chefs Jacob and Symes butchered the lamb, which they then served over eight courses to 10 people at Jacob’s house. “From there, the supper club evolved to be a more elaborate event, starting with a theme or an ingredient and four or five chefs in friendly competition, with a sommelier or mixologist and a wait staff,” Jacob said. The supper clubs gained in popularity and guests began asking if Jacob could cater their corporate events. 

Jacob’s love of food, and the source of inspiration for much of what he cooks, stems from his Jewish heritage. 

“The techniques and flavor combinations of the foods I grew up with are my daily inspirations, using smoke and brine, caraway and dill, and using cheaper ingredients and attempting to elevate them to more sophisticated levels,” Jacob said. “Beyond that, it’s also about feeding people and how it equates with showing love. I think that’s one of the things that I appreciate most about Judaism and food culture, how tied to food and love are.”

With a baby at home, Jacob has had less time for creating menus, but plenty of food and love in his life. He enjoys reinventing antiquated Jewish recipes and believes that “soon enough, we’ll see modern adaptations of kugel and kishke and gefilte fish on fancy menus all over the place.” 

His embrace of his heritage has lead directly to his emphasis on ethical food. We must pay attention to where our food comes from, Jacob said, not just because the way something is grown correlates to the quality of its taste, but also because it’s the right thing to do. 

“With kashrut, Jews were probably the first people to truly source their food and closely examine its origins,” Jacob said. “While training as a chef and a caterer, I worked for a fully kosher-certified Bay Area caterer to learn exactly how kashrut is applied in commercial kitchens and professional events.”

When sourcing ingredients, Comestible goes beyond the farm-to-table movement, returning to Jacob’s Jewish roots. During his interactions with farmers and suppliers, Jacob strives to find the best kosher ingredients and ensures that the animals used in his dishes were treated humanely. 

Jacob remembers the early days of his supper club events fondly. “I know that it’s not going to be possible to ever go back to the way they were at the beginning, with all of the excitement and mistakes and far too many drinks for both cooks and diners. … It felt like a moment in time, where everyone kind of knew something special was happening. There was just so much creativity and teamwork, and I think you could really see it in the presentation and taste it in the food,” Jacob said. 

In the near future, Jacob hopes to grow Comestible’s team of chefs, but he is also determined to remain personally involved in every event that they cater. He will only take on as many events as he can while still offering the same high-quality, heartfelt dining experience. For Jacob, the goal has never been about numbers or filling seats. Comestible is founded on a simple tradition of sharing good food with good company. 

COMESTIBLE GRAVLAX

People always think that lox have to be expensive or labor-intensive, but in reality, these dishes are super-easy to make and fairly inexpensive. All you need is some foresight, as the fish takes 4 to 6 days to cure, minimum. 

  • 2 sides of salmon
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1 cup salt
  • 2 tablespoons ground star anise
  • 2 tablespoons ground juniper
  • 2 tablespoons ground clove
  • 2 tablespoons ground allspice
  • 2 tablespoons ground fennel seed
  • 4 bunches of dill

 

Start with two fillets of salmon, skin-down, on a cutting board.

Mix all dry ingredients in a bowl. 

Pour half the dry rub over both salmon fillets and rub into salmon meat thoroughly. Next, lay bunches of dill over one of the salmon fillets until it is completely covered in dill. Pour the remaining dry rub over the fillet with the dill. 

Place the other fillet skin-up on top of the dill-covered fillet to create a salmon sandwich, with the thick layer of dill as the middle. Line up the fillets as closely as possible so all the spices and dill stay inside.

Next, wrap the salmon sandwich tightly in plastic wrap and place in a large roasting pan. Place another roasting pan directly on top of the salmon sandwich (covering it completely) and weigh it down with cans or something heavy, such as a Dutch oven or cast iron pan. This is the pressing process. Place in refrigerator.

After two days, open it up and flip the salmon sandwich so the other side is facing up. Rewrap it with fresh plastic wrap and place the salmon sandwich back in the roasting pan, repeating the pressing process for the second side. The salmon will release some water, but it shouldn’t smell bad or fishy. 

After an additional two to four days, pull from the refrigerator and unwrap. Toss the dill and give the filets a quick rinse before laying them skin-down on a paper towel. You will see the pin bones starting to protrude. Go down each fillet and pull out the bones with tweezers; they should slide right out at this point. 

Once it is deboned, your salmon is ready to be sliced for lox or used however you see fit. The serving size will depend on the size of your salmon fillet, usually between 2 and 4 pounds. One side of salmon usually makes sliced lox for 20 to 30 people. The scraps can be chopped up and whipped into cream cheese for homemade shmeer. 

Bay area chef revives tradition of supper clubs Read More »

The celebrated chef of Sqirl refreshes the Passover meal

On a rainy Friday morning, the weather did not deter the devotees lined up outside Sqirl, Jessica Koslow’s nationally renowned cafe. Long lines are a staple at this tiny, vibrant Virgil Avenue storefront, located in a nondescript East Hollywood neighborhood not far from the hipper boulevards of Silver Lake. Inside, servers laden with colorful plates navigated the crowded space with the litheness of ballet dancers.

Despite serving only breakfast and lunch, Sqirl has amassed a cult following and myriad awards for dishes that meld flavors from North Africa, the Middle East and the Mediterranean — all prepared with farm-fresh California produce. Consider the Kokuho brown rice bowl, infused with sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, house-fermented hot sauce, watermelon radish and French sheep feta, then topped with a perfectly poached egg. Or the crispy rice salad flavored with lemongrass, mint, cilantro and ginger. Then there’s Koslow’s signature choice of some 35 seasonal jams she makes from scratch — including blood orange, Persian mulberry and elephant heart plum preserves. 

In an interview, the 34-year-old Long Beach native said she wouldn’t be eating any of Sqirl’s signature bread dishes — such as her famous brioch ricotta toast — during Passover. Rather, she’ll consume boxed matzo, like the rest of us, but also veggies and her own version of matzo brie, which Sqirl will offer during the eight-day holiday.

“We make it almost like a pancake. And we serve it two ways: sweet and savory,” Koslow said while sipping Sqirl’s lemon-ginger tea during an interview. “We soak matzo in an egg mixture and ladle it into a skillet when we cook it. We prepare it very softly, with no browning at all. The savory version is served with an herb salad and greens, and it comes with nasturtium salad and our tomato and coriander jam. For the sweet, we use butter, powdered sugar and maple syrup.

“I actually really love this holiday,” she added. “Part of it is the discipline of keeping Passover for a week. The other part is the tradition of celebrating the holiday with friends and family.”

Koslow began hosting her own seders around 2012, for much the same reason she had created Sqirl the previous year. “I had moved back to Los Angeles from New York, and I wanted to feel the sense of community that I didn’t yet have here,” she said. 

At her first seder, she served 25 guests in her modest Silver Lake duplex. The celebration, led by a Jewish friend, featured a modern haggadah that emphasized sharing the participants’ personal journeys from slavery to freedom.

And the food reflected Koslow’s penchant for clean flavors and spices both East and West. She seared her lamb ribs in butter and olive oil and served them medium rare, topped with a salsa verde infused with mint, parsley and capers, as well as a generous sprinkling of chopped fresh parsley and chives. 

Over the years, Koslow’s seder favorites have included trussed, seared and roasted chicken stuffed with lemon, rosemary and thyme; seared spring peas with a splash of vinegar; and a shredded potato kugel combining eggs, matzo meal, cream, lemon zest and chives.

This year, she’s planning to make braised brisket cooked “low and slow” with verjus and one tart green apricot; matzo ball soup prepared with celery, carrots, onions and schmaltz; and roasted carrots spiced with za’atar.

The chef’s brisket recipe is very different from the Passover fare she ate during her childhood seders at her aunt’s home in Palos Verdes. “The brisket was made with onion soup mix, for sure,” said Koslow, adding that the dish was nevertheless tasty.

Raised by a single mother — a busy dermatologist — Koslow’s childhood meals were simple but healthy: Tyson skinless chicken breasts from Costco were a staple in the freezer, as was a brined corned beef from Bristol Farms, which her mother would boil on the stove for sandwiches.

But Koslow wasn’t a foodie as a child. A competitive ice skater from age 5, she had to watch her caloric intake. It was only after she quit the sport at 18 that she turned to food and cooking in earnest.

Koslow became an avid home chef while an undergraduate in economics at Brandeis University, as well as while pursuing a master’s degree in communications at Georgetown University. 

But after consuming a scrumptious meal at Anne Quatrano’s famed Bacchanalia restaurant in Atlanta some time later, she wrote the chef an impassioned letter asking for a job. “It was really cheesy,” she recalled with a smile. “I said I would do anything, even scrubbing the floors, to work there.  During our interview, she laughed at me.”

But Koslow landed the job on the spot. The gig paid only about $10 an hour, however, so to pay her bills she eventually took on a more practical job helping produce Fox’s hit show “American Idol” in New York and then later Los Angeles.

To keep her hand in the cooking game, Koslow juggled a day shift at Fox with baking all night at the Village Bakery in Atwater Village. “It was exhausting,” she said. Finally, she decided to use money she had earned as a producer to open her own venture — a shop that would sell jams she had learned to make from Quatrano. “I figured that would be a practical way for me to work by myself,” she said. In 2011, Koslow purchased the Virgil Avenue storefront that would become Sqirl. “There were cockroaches everywhere, and it was just a mess,” she recalled of the property’s initial condition.

But she cleaned up the place, and her inventive, not-too-sweet jams caught on so much that several years later, she transformed the joint into the breakfast-and-lunch place she continues to run.

These days, her business has become so successful that Koslow will soon open a to-go version, Sqirl Away, in a property she rented next door to the cafe. She’s also signed a two-cookbook deal with Abrams Books; her first, “Everything I Want to Eat,” will be in stores in October.

And early next year, Koslow will realize her passion project: Opening a yet-to-be-named, 100-seat restaurant devoted to foods of the Jewish Diaspora, plus to-go food and catering.

“It’s based on the idea that, why aren’t we mixing Sephardic and Ashkenazi cuisines?” she said. “Why aren’t we mixing sauerkraut, falafel and hummus? There are so many fantastic flavors in Jewish food that are not finding a crossover. Let’s combine Polish and Georgian and Moroccan and Israeli and Turkish Jewish cuisines. Even when we talk about cooking potatoes in brown butter with preserved lemon, that’s a Sephardic riff that I’ve entered into Ashkenazi flavors.”

Meanwhile, Koslow is squeezing out time in her hectic schedule to plan her upcoming seder. “Most chefs cook so much that they don’t want to do it in their own kitchens,” she said. “I barely cook at home. So that’s another thing that Passover provides for me. I have a task, which is to make my own dinner for 30 people, and I really look forward to it.”

Jessica Koslow’s Savory Matzo Brei
(Served with tomato coriander jam)

Photo by Jessica Koslow

Serves 2 

6 eggs

3/4 sheet matzo

1/4 cup cream

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter

Crack 6 eggs into a bowl. With a fork, whisk the eggs until a pale yellow, about 1 minute.

Add the 3/4 sheet of matzo, broken into small pieces, and cream and salt, stirring with a spatula. Let sit between 1 and 5 minutes.

Place a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat and add 1 tablespoon of butter.  When the butter slows its bubbling, add 1/2 of matzo brei mixture (for 1 serving). You will start to notice the egg cooking around the bottom and sides of the pan.  Push your spatula on the bottom of the pan and around the sides, while shaking the pan with your other hand so that more egg mixture touches the hottest parts of the pan while keeping the mixture from getting overly hot. Continue to shake and push cooked egg mixtures off the bottom while allowing more of the uncooked mixture to get its chance at the bottom of the pan a couple of more times. You can either continue to shake the pan and push with the spatula to make a soft scramble matzo brei, or you can turn it into a pancake by letting the pan sit without movement until the bottom appears set, about 10-15 seconds. Turn heat off.  

The matzo brei should slide out onto a plate. Finish with a sprinkle of fleur de sel and freshly cracked pepper.  Serve with a dollop of tomato coriander jam and a salad (we add nasturtiums to ours).

Note: If the eggs do not slide out onto the plate, you can use your spatula to loosen.  Additionally, you can lift up part of the eggs away from the pan and insert a bit of butter between the eggs and the pan to help loosen any egg stuck to the pan. 

JESSICA KOSLOW’S SHADY LADY TOMATO AND CORIANDER JAM

Shady Lady tomatoes have more going for them than just a great name. They are a farmers market favorite, an all-purpose tomato with good flavor. We turn them into savory jam, which is sort of like our version of ketchup, only a little spicier. It’s super-tasty in a grilled cheese sandwich.

You’ll have enough to use all year long.

2 scant tablespoons whole coriander seeds

3 1/3 pounds ripe, red tomatoes

2 1/4 cups sugar

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

In a small, dry skillet set over medium-low heat, toast the coriander seeds until they are fragrant. Remove from the heat and use the back of a spoon or a mortar and pestle to grind about 1/3 of the toasted coriander to a powder. Set the whole coriander and the ground coriander aside for adding later.

Cut the tomatoes in half and remove their core. Using an immersion blender or a food processor, blend the tomatoes until they’re saucy. Put the blended tomatoes in a large bowl, then stir in the sugar and salt. They don’t have to macerate for long, but there should be some sort of marriage between the fruit and the sugar. If you have the time, it helps to let them sit, covered with parchment, overnight.

Transfer the tomato mixture to the jam pot. Cook over high heat, stirring often, until you see white scum form on the surface. Skim it off, then keep cooking and skimming until most of the scum is skimmed. It’ll form forever, but there’s a point at which the scum falls back onto itself. At that point, stop skimming and add the whole and ground coriander.

Continue to cook the tomato jam until it has reduced in volume by around half or a bit more. It usually takes a good hour-plus. To know when it is done, I look for rings around the pot that tell me how much jam there was and now is. There should be one ring for how high the tomato jam was when it started cooking. Then you can estimate where half of that amount would be. The finished tomato jam will be a little loose and glossy, although it’s important to know that it never hits that thick, super-glossy jam texture.

Note on tomatoes: We use a variety of tomato called Shady Lady that we buy from Debbie Wong of Wong Farms. I love her tomatoes. We make this jam only when it’s the peak of the season, and we always make it with tomato seconds. Go to your farmers market and ask a tomato farmer for seconds, which are usually half the price of the perfect-looking tomatoes. Make sure they’re red, because if they are yellow and green, your jam will turn out brown.

The celebrated chef of Sqirl refreshes the Passover meal Read More »

European travel: Should I stay or should I go?

Three days before I was to depart for Europe on a river cruise traversing the waterways of the Netherlands and Belgium, I woke up to the news that terrorists had detonated explosives at Brussels’ airport and one of the city’s metro stations, killing more than 30 victims and wounding more than 300 others. 

Ten minutes later, I received a call from my (predictably) worried mom in Chicago, telling me to check to see if anything was canceled. A representative from the cruise line, the Calabasas-based AmaWaterways, answered my email within minutes, informing me the trip was still on, though the itinerary was changed due to the March 22 attacks: Our time in Belgium would be confined to a day and a half and we would be having more stops in Dutch towns instead.

My travel companion was on the phone with me 20 minutes later, arguing that we should move ahead as planned with the cruise, even with less time in Belgium. Otherwise, he said, “The terrorists would win.”

We were not the only ones with these concerns. Jon and Robyn Cohen, a Reform couple from West Hollywood, ultimately decided to set sail, too, but not without careful consideration. We discussed the subject en route to a half-day excursion in Ghent in northern Belgium, where we experienced an unsettling moment crossing through an underpass defaced with neo-Nazi graffiti.

Jon, a comedy writer and ad operations manager at Midroll, a Hollywood podcast company, said the package he and his wife selected was based on what was and what wasn’t on the itinerary.

“I did not want to go to France, especially given the attacks in Paris and how Jews were affected by them,” he said. “[As I followed] the news, I found few anti-Semitic [events] happening in Belgium and Holland.” 

That didn’t stop his father from issuing the familiar warning, “Don’t tell anybody you are Jewish.” And Robyn, a travel agent with Pleasant Holidays, was cautioned by her mother against wearing religious jewelry.

Informed by a career in tourism that included time at the Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau, Robyn took a pragmatic view of the situation.

“[Terrorism] can happen anywhere, including L.A.,” she said. “I left the final decisions to AmaWaterways regarding whether or not the cruise would be canceled or how they would modify the schedule.

“One thing that puts this kind of situation into perspective is that I work with Pleasant’s Caribbean products, and we’ve been doing battle with the Zika virus and the perceptions generated in the news. While I can’t travel there, as I am pregnant, for everybody else traveling there, I advise taking common sense precautions.”

Although Jon insisted Robyn make calls to the cruise line to get updates, she assured him that Amsterdam — the start and end point for the cruise — was far enough away from Brussels, and security precautions had been taken. Our conversation shifted again to our one full-day Belgian adventure in Antwerp, which went without a hitch. 

“However, the concerns would be different in many places if I were Orthodox,” Jon said. 

The increased security presence around Antwerp combined with the business-as-usual spirit made us truly appreciate the frites, architecture and bike tour of the Jewish quarter all the more. Religiously observant men with beards and tallitot went about their day, breezing past us on their bikes as the guide explained that the city has one of the highest concentrations of Orthodox Jews in the world outside Israel and Brooklyn.

Several travel agents specializing in Jewish travel advised customers to proceed with their plans these days, as long as they keep both their minds and eyes open to stay safe. 

Florida-based Sophia Kulich, who operates Jewish Travel Agency and Sophia’s Travel, suggested that her clients take U.S. government travel advisories seriously and register with its Smart Traveler Enrollment Program ( European travel: Should I stay or should I go? Read More »

Ivanka Trump: Dad was ‘very supportive’ of my Jewish conversion

Ivanka Trump said her father, Republican presidential front-runner Donald Trump, was fully supportive of her conversion to Judaism.

“My father was very supportive,” she said at a CNN town hall meeting featuring the presidential candidate and his family broadcast Tuesday evening. “He knows me. He knows and he trusts my judgment. When I make decisions, I make them in a well-reasoned way. I don’t rush into things.

Ivanka Trump, who works for her real estate magnate father’s corporation, had an Orthodox conversion before marrying Jared Kushner, the scion of another real estate family.

“I appreciate the support [my father] gave me because obviously these decisions are not taken lightly,” Ivanka Trump said, replying to a question from Joseph Cohen, a law student at Columbia University.

“And it would have been much more hard if I had had headwinds, but he believes in me,” she said. “He loves my husband. They’re incredibly close, which I think was obviously helpful. And he has been very supportive of me in that decision, as in many others that I’ve taken throughout the years.”

Kushner has been the Trump campaign’s main point man to the Jewish community, and he helped shape the candidate’s well-received speech last month to the American Israel Public Affairs Committee.

The candidates on both the Republican and Democratic slates are focusing on their messaging to the Jewish community ahead of the April 19 New York state primary.

CNN is having town hall meetings this week for each of the three Republican presidential candidates and their families.

Ivanka Trump: Dad was ‘very supportive’ of my Jewish conversion Read More »