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Food

Food flight: Perusing American Jewry’s past and present

Two relatively new books tell the story of American Jewry, weaving together its past and present by examining tradition and making it relevant to today’s reader. Where Sue Fishkoff’s \”Kosher Nation: Why More and More of America’s Food Answers to a Higher Authority\” (Schocken, 2010) is robust and detailed, Leah Koenig’s \”The Hadassah Everyday Cookbook: Daily Meals for the Contemporary Jewish Kitchen\” (Universe, 2011) is spacious and adaptable.

Spice it up

The old-fashioned chalkboard just outside the front doors of Sassi in Encino announces that the day’s special is Tripolitan couscous, and this is exactly what I’m here for.

Passover Argentina style

In Argentina, although Passover comes in the fall, the celebration is much like that observed by Jews in the United States, and the food is similar to Eastern European dishes, but with a South American flair. Argentina has a Jewish population of more than 250,000, making it the largest in Latin America. Their ancestors immigrated from Poland, Russia, Syria, Turkey and North Africa in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Most of the immigrants spoke Yiddish, formed settlements such as Moisés Ville and Villa Clara, and became gauchos (cowboys).

B’tayavon, Tony

Television is littered with lousy food shows. I know I risk sounding like some grumpy old coot wondering whatever happened to Jack Paar, but I do wonder what the spirit of the great Julia Child would make of the utter mediocrity, the sheer lack of aspiration, the game show approach and personality-driven fluff that has become the norm in food TV. Thank God for Anthony Bourdain.

Bagel’s roundabout route to China [UPDATE, Chinese Translation]

Once upon a time, whenever Debbie Nagy-Huang and her husband returned home to Beijing from their native New York, they stuffed their suitcases full of H&H bagels. They froze and rationed them so they would last for months. “They’re just that one taste of home that you couldn’t ever get over here,” she said, sighing. Then one day last year, she saw a small story in a local magazine. Jordan Maseng, an honest-to-God, living-and-breathing New Yorker, was baking and delivering bagels, right here in the Chinese capital.

EasyJet apologizes for pork sandwiches

EasyJet apologized to Jewish passengers who were offered ham melts and bacon baguettes. The budget airline has featured kosher and vegetarian sandwiches since its London-Tel Aviv route was introduced late last year, a spokeswoman told media outlets Tuesday. It is also the airline\’s policy not to have any pork products on board the planes on that route.

A sandwich for all seasons

Owner Danny Mizrahi, as casual and unpretentious as his restaurant, is at the door greeting customers when my family and I arrive at Sandwich Bar 26 on Ventura Boulevard in Encino. It is one of those impossibly sunny winter days where we can eat comfortably at an outdoor table, along with other families out for a casual Sunday lunch.

Market fresh soups

Fresh ingredients for a soup are a chef’s dream, and the best place to find them is at your local farmers market — fresh fennel, squash, mushrooms, ripe tomatoes of all shapes as well as root vegetables. Our first experience with open-air markets was on a trip to Italy in the early ’60s. We walked excitedly through the marketplace looking at the fresh fruit and vegetables, then when we discovered that every village had its own market day during the week, we tried to visit all of them. The melons were sweet, the figs perfect, and the tomatoes, while ripe, still had a little green on them, but they were delicious.

The mouth is the window to the soul

If you want to start a business, Magal Nagar says, don’t rely on other people. Nagar learned that lesson the hard way. When she had the idea two years ago to open a vegan cafe, Nagar didn’t know the first thing about starting a business. Neither did her friend and partner, Kinzie Oppenheim. “We had no knowledge, just the courage,” Nagar said.

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