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October 20, 2005

Bike the Big Apple

Chasidic Williamsburg, Roosevelt Island and Long Island City are easily navigable by bicycle, but given New York’s frenetic pace, you might prefer an expert take you there.

Bronx native Joel Seidenstein stands ready at the handlebars.

After 33 years teaching social studies in the city public schools, Seidenstein launched Bike the Big Apple bicycle tours as a second career. His professional experience and Borscht Belt one-liners make this Teaneck, N.J. resident a charming guide.

On a recent Friday, I joined Seidenstein, a second guide and eight tourists for the “Back to the Old Country — The Ethnic Apple Tour.” For five hours and 18 miles we cycled over bridges and waterways, dodging traffic jams, potholes and hazards by taking “quieter” streets. (This is New York, after all.) It was a great alternative to explore the city’s ethnic diversity and visit one of its most interesting Jewish areas: Williamsburg.

Our tour began on Second Avenue as we picked up our bikes at the Pedal Pusher Bike Shop on the Upper East Side. Equipped with helmets and Velcroed ankle ties to keep pants from getting caught in bike chains, we headed south, single file, to 60th Street. We schlepped our bikes up a flight of stairs and wheeled them on to a massive tram for a ride over the East River. Featured in the smash film “Spider-Man,” this Swiss-made ski tram was installed about 30 years ago. It is one of the few of its kind operating in an urban setting. Surrounded by windows on all sides, the 360-degree view was spectacular.

Within minutes we landed on Roosevelt Island. While we stopped and admired the views, Seidenstein explained how the island evolved into a “city within the city” as a refuge for smallpox victims, the insane and criminals. Once known as Welfare Island, it was filled with institutions and “undesirables” from the bigger city just across the river.

Seidenstein led us on our bikes across the island, pointing out landmarks along the way. When we reached the northern tip of the island facing Hell’s Gate, Gracie Mansion and the Triborough Bridge, Seidenstein read to us from Charles Dickens, who visited the island 150 years ago and described the “ugly nakedness of these houses of hell.”

To leave the island, we pedaled up the 59th Street Bridge to Queens, then past the former Pepsi-Cola plant to Long Island City, where we stopped at a small park at the end of the railroad tracks. With the beautiful backdrop of the city behind him, Seidenstein recalled the history of the neighborhood and how barges met trains delivering goods destined for the city.

As we made our way into the heart of the neighborhood, Seidenstein pointed out the ethnic mix of the area. Examples were everywhere. A Spanish bodega called Los Amigos Deli stood in the shadow of the Italian Manetta Ristorante.

Soon after we were in Greenpoint, a Polish-Russian neighborhood that also has an Islamic presence. Mosques and Orthodox churches stand practically side by side. While the rest of our group, which wasn’t Jewish, went on to eat in a non-kosher Thai restaurant, I continued on to Williamsburg, with the plan that our group would join me there after lunch.

I had a great time exploring this Chasidic neighborhood on bike, meandering down the streets and into a few shops. An estimated 60,000 Satmars call Williamsburg home, and I found myself amid the Sabbath eve bustle. I felt a bit out of place as a modern woman with a bicycle in tow, but knowing that I was soon to be joining their pre-Shabbat rush, I also felt a certain kinship and an appreciation for their traditional way of life and the preservation of many important Jewish values.

When the rest of the tour group rejoined me soon after, Seidenstein asked me to translate Hebrew writing spray-painted on the sidewalk that encouraged the observance of the “holy Shabbos.” As we stood there discussing the Satmar way of life, the local bus rolled by, the words “Williamsburg Trolley” spelled out above the windshield in Hebrew letters.

From Williamsburg we continued onward past a few other sites, including the old Navy Yard, where director Steven Spielberg has purchased property to build a “Hollywood of the East.”

Leaving Brooklyn, the Friday traffic was heavy, but the view of Lower Manhattan was well worth it. Our ascent onto the Brooklyn Bridge was the perfect finale. The expansive skyline unfolded to our left and right. Once we reached the halfway point, Seidenstein wowed us with more historic details about the fascinating construction of this architectural masterpiece.

For more information, call (877) 865-0078 or visit Bike the Big Apple Read More »

Levelers Make for Moving Havurah

It was 1974, and gas had soared to $1.29 a gallon. Tens of thousands of educated, white-collar Americans imagined that they were truckers, squawking “breaker, breaker” and “10-4” into their CB radios, adopting handles like “Rubber Duck.” Super-sized recreational vehicles filled the roads. At the North Valley Jewish Community Center (JCC) in Granada Hills, a group of young parents caught the bug. The North Valley JCC is struggling to stay alive and the parents are not so young anymore, but the club is going strong.

“You have to be a real mensch to hang out with us,” said Freya Teplinsky, corresponding secretary of Lovin’ Levelers, an all-Jewish RV club with 80 members from the Valley, Ventura County, the Westside and the Inland Empire. Most are in their 60s.

“We’re not so much about the rigs as about the socializing,” Teplinsky said. “Most of us are not here to show off our million-dollar RVs. We’re more like a big havurah.”

In the beginning, the Levelers traveled with little pop-up campers and hauled tents and sleeping bags. Like truckers, they called their vehicles “rigs.” The years have been good, and now the term “rig” is appropriate. Many of the RVs are so big that the drivers must use cameras rather than mirrors to see what’s approaching from behind. Rick and Dianna Rice of Simi Valley started off in 1976 with a $15,000 23-foot RV. Today, they pilot a 36-footer for which they paid more than $100,000.

The Journal caught up with Lovin’ Levelers on a Saturday afternoon in August, meeting them at Ventura RV Resort near the Ventura County Fairgrounds, where 28 of the members and six prospective members had gathered for the annual fair. The Levelers weren’t hard to find. An Israeli flag in front of Brenda and Arnie Rich’s new rig marked the spot.

Howard Brody, a retired high school counselor, and his wife, Shari, a retired teacher, welcomed us into their 32-foot Southwind, worth about $106,000 when new, far from the top end among the Levelers. Inside, it smelled like a bakery.

“Club members call ourselves ‘meals on wheels,'” Howard Brody said. “Our main activity is eating.”

Teplinsky buzzed into the campgrounds on her motorbike and rattled off a partial list of upcoming destinations: Palm Desert, Pechanga Indian Casino, Balboa Island, San Francisco, Yosemite.

“It doesn’t really matter where we go,” said Brenda Rich, the club’s treasurer. “We get together because we enjoy each other’s company.”

Rich and her husband, Arnie, own one of the bigger and fancier rigs in the group, a 36-foot gray-and-burgundy Country Coach Inspire. They had just traded down a month earlier — their 40-foot Monaco was too big for some national parks. All the cabinetry in the Inspire is cherrywood, and the mammoth refrigerator-freezer is stainless steel. The Inspire still had the new-RV smell. With the press of a button, the Riches extended the sides to widen the rig to the width of a cruise ship. Fellow Leveler Gil Stark said, “This isn’t a rig — it’s a palace.”

Stark took us through his own RV, a 24-foot Terry Trailer.

“Smallest rig in the park,” he said. “But no one in the club looks down on us because we have a little rig.”

Next to the Starks’ W.C., a sign said, “Bless This Lousy Trailer.” The tiny bed bespoke a truly close relationship. Stark and his wife, Sheila, threw a 50th anniversary party for themselves at the Odyssey in Granada Hills last July. They had 107 guests, 50 of them Levelers.

“They’re like family,” Gil Stark said.

“They’re our closest friends,” Sheila Stark added.

Gil Stark said the Levelers include a doctor, two lawyers, an architect and several engineers, including himself, “but it’s a very haimish group.”

Who came up with the club’s name is now lost in the cobwebs of time. All anyone can recall is that the club absorbed two or three earlier clubs with names like North Valley Jewish Community Center Camping Club and then voted in favor of their present name. “Leveler” is a reference to the fact that RV refrigerators won’t work unless the rigs are perfectly level.

Most Levelers estimated their gas mileage at 7 or 8 miles per gallon. With gas hovering at about $3 a gallon, was this a problem?

“Nah,” Brenda Rich said. “Not when you consider that a hotel is $200 a night.”

Every month, Lovin’ Levelers meets after a dinner at Brent’s Deli in Northridge to plan out 12 weekends a year to campgrounds within a few hours’ drive of Los Angeles, as well as two longer trips a year to more distant points.

From Nov. 4-6, you’ll find them in Danish country as they visit Solvang. They’ll line up their gleaming, shiny RVs — along with the Starks’ — at Flying Flags RV Resort and Campground on Friday night in Buellton. They’ll recite Shabbat blessings over chocolate-chip challah, and they’ll sing traditional Jewish melodies.

Gabe Albala said he met his future wife, Roz, through Lovin’ Levelers. They had camped together with previous spouses, and then became a couple after both were widowed.

“We were in a campground near Gorman, near the Grapevine,” he said. “We all took a hike. First thing, Roz and I got lost together.”

He proposed on her 70th birthday, in 1998.

“We Sephardim are very romantic,” he said.

They were married the following year.

Gil Stark talked of the time the Levelers went to the “Follies,” a show in Palm Springs put on mostly by and for senior citizens. A comedian asked who the Levelers were, and they told him.

“Oh,” he said. “Jewish trailer trash.”

Carol Warren of Camarillo and her husband, Darryl Sobelman, were among the three couples who were checking out the Levelers in Ventura. Warren had spotted an item on the Levelers in her temple bulletin. “I never would have believed there were Jewish RVers,” she said.

At the clubhouse, it was karaoke night. But the Levelers had other plans. From the club’s 10-page Havdalah songster, Allan Teplinsky led the Levelers through “Shabbat Shalom” and “Shavuah Tov.” They sang enthusiastically, with passion and with heart. The prospective new members sang along.

Participants rose for the Motzi and then blessed a large braided candle that the group had made. They passed a spice box from person to person. They linked arms and swayed and sang, “Eliyahu Hanavi.” Everyone knew the words.

“It all started with the children,” Freya Teplinsky said. “When they were little, we wanted to do Shabbat, Havdalah and Chanukah — the warm, fuzzy stuff. Many of us are grandparents now, and we’re not exactly camping in tents anymore, but the Jewish part never changed.”

Group members adjourned to a side room, where the Levelers had set up a dessert bar. Volunteers served brownies, cookies, root beer floats and five kinds of ice cream.

And quickly, the good news spread: Three new couples had joined. One of them had a 42-foot-long RV, a tall and visually arresting black-and-gray Travel Supreme diesel “pusher” model, worth maybe $350,000. By the end of the evening, the couples were Lovin’ Levelers.

If they are like the others, they’ll likely be Levelers for life.

For more information, call Freya Teplinsky at (818) 368-3471 or e-mail to shayna@socal.rr.com. Annual dues are $36 per year per couple or $18 per person plus monthly trip costs.

 

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7 Days in The Arts

Saturday, October 22

Having recently taken on Arthur Miller on Broadway, in the play “The American Clock,” actor Jason Fisher now tries his craft with another Jewish icon. “Lenny Bruce: In His Own Words” opens tonight at M-Bar, with Fisher offering up Bruce rantings on race, class, ethnicity, sex, drugs and free speech.

10 p.m. Saturdays through Dec. 17. $12-$18 (plus drinks). 1253 N. Vine St., Los Angeles. (323) 993-3305.

Sunday, October 23

The Workmen’s Circle offers a Halloweeny outlet with Jewish, uh, spirit today. Bring the kids to see a play of the classic Jewish tale, “The Golem,” a comedic take on the story about a muddy giant that offers lessons about being careful what you wish for.

2:30 p.m. Also, Oct. 22, at 8 p.m. $8-$10. 1525 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles. R.S.V.P., (310) 552-2007.

Monday, October 24

See and hear the survival stories of the Hakoah Vienna Sports Club’s champion female swimmers this evening, when Cinemax airs the documentary, “Watermarks.” Forced into segregation before eventually being forced out altogether, the Jewish female athletes fled Austria in varying directions. The film follows some of the swimmers back to Vienna for a moving reunion, along the way telling their individual stories of endurance.

6:30-8 p.m. Also airs Nov. 8, 7:10 a.m.

Tuesday, October 25

“Saturday Night at Grossingers” playwright Rita Lakin brings new meaning to the term niche literature with her debut Yiddish mystery novel, “Getting Old Is Murder.” The author has also written for television’s “Dynasty,” “Peyton Place” and “The Mod Squad.” She reads from and signs the book tonight at Dutton’s Beverly Hills, and on Oct. 29 at Mystery Bookstore in Los Angeles.

7 p.m. 447 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 887-1849.

Wednesday, October 26

It’s a Golem kind of week. But no earthen Frankensteins tonight. Just Golem, the band. The group of New York-based klezmer rockers “transforms the music of its Jewish grandparents, making it modern, edgy, sexy and brash.” Or so they say on their Web site. Check ’em out for yourself tonight at King King.

9 p.m. $10. 6555 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. (323) 960-9011.

Thursday, October 27

Jewish literary fare abounds at the San Diego Jewish Book Fair. The fest is kicked off today with a special preview event of Jack Klugman discussing his book, “Tony and Me: A Story of Friendship,” the Tony, of course, being the actor’s “Odd Couple” co-star Tony Randall. Or, make a weekend out of it when the Fair continues Nov. 10-16 with a variety of author appearances, and a family day on Sun., Nov. 13.

Lawrence Family JCC, 4126 Executive Drive, La Jolla. (858) 362-1348.

Friday, October 28

Rappers Jerome Sable and Eli Batalion offer up, “J.O.B.: The Hip Hopera,” a retelling of the biblical story of Job as an allegory of contemporary corporate life in the music biz — in rap. Yes, they rap the whole thing, with accompaniment by breakdancers, singers, a live DJ and brand-new score. Word.

8 p.m. (Thursdays-Sundays); 3 p.m. (Sundays). Runs through Nov. 27. Stella Adler Theatre, 6773 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. (323) 960-4420.

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Spectator – Sweet Music Amid Turmoil

Those who have followed the documentaries produced by the Simon Wiesenthal Center know what to expect: Films like “Genocide,” “Liberation” and “In Search of Peace” that hit you right between the eyes and in the solar plexus.

Thus, it is more the surprise that its Moriah Films division’s latest documentary, “Beautiful Music,” a 39-minute film narrated by Brooke Shields, proves to be sensitive and understated. “Beautiful Music,” directed and written by the Wiesenthal Center’s Richard Trank, was based on original material by Trank and Rabbi Marvin Hier.

It’s about a blind and autistic Arab girl who blossoms into a musical savant under the tutelage of a caring Jewish piano teacher.

Rasha Hamad, who is deaf and blind like her younger sister, is locked into a small room with her sibling by their parents and later abandoned. Traumatized and helpless, the girls are given a warm home in the Arab village of Beit Jala by a Dutch missionary couple, Edward and Helene Vollbehr.

The girls seem unable to respond to human contact, they beat themselves on the heads and they scream endlessly. But then the Vollbehrs notice that Rasha calms down when listening to classical music and shows an amazing aptitude for playing the piano.

The Vollbehrs turn to the Jerusalem Conservatory of Music, where Rasha is entrusted to Devorah Schramm — although the task is daunting even for this devoted teacher. While Rasha’s piano playing keeps improving, and she even starts to compose her own music, it takes two or three years of daily lessons before Rasha shows any signs of bonding with her teacher. Rasha also suffers when the larger world around her goes awry, when Scuds fall during the 1991 Gulf War or during the terror of the two intifadas.

With calmer days, Rasha picks up again, The last scene shows her performing a Chopin sonata, joined by Jewish classmates, to the applause of the Jewish audience, which had pitched in to pay for her lessons.

Summing up her experience, Schramm observes, “If we look at the headlines, we see generalities. But when we look at one individual, we see more deeply.”

The film will screen at the Hollywood Film Festival on Sunday, Oct. 23 at 3:30 p.m. at the Arclight Theatres, 6360 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. For information visit www.hollywoodawards.com/screenings.

 

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